Singer Pajama Pants

Pajama pants are a really fun project to sew. You can choose some cozy fabric and stitch up something that you can lounge in in this pajama pants project. I'm going to show you how to add in sea pockets to your pattern and how to do some decorative stitching on the cuff at the lower edge because my singer se 91 80 has so many wonderful built in decorative stitches. We can really play around with this design at the lower edge. So the pattern for these pants will be available to you in the description of this video, there will be a link, you can access the pattern, download that choose your size and you're going to cut out two fronts, a mirror image of your fronts and a mirror image pair of your backs as well and you'll need two cuffs. So on this pattern, the the pocket inseam pocket doesn't come with the pattern. I'm gonna show you how to draw a pocket bag pattern for yourself. So this is the upper edge of my front pattern and to draw yourself a pocket bag, you'll need a new piece of paper. So here's what my pocket bag looks like. And here's how I drew that. So take a piece of paper, place your hand on it and you're going to trace around your hand and you wanna keep in mind you're going to have half inch seam ounces right here. So you wanna make sure you have enough room around your hand for that. So you're gonna start at about your wrist, draw around your hand and when you get to right here to about your wrist again, stop bring your pattern in and take your paper and align it on your pattern. So we don't want our pocket bag going straight in, we want it to be angled down. So angle that pocket bag piece down so that this one point that was a right around your wrist is touching the side scene. And then up here where you ended drawing around your hand, you're going to want to draw that in to meet the side scene and then just connect those lines tracing over the side seam in this area and where you place your pocket bag on your side scene, it's up to you and to some degree. But in the upper edge of our pants, we're going to have a channel for our elastic waistband. So we're going to be folding this upper edge over and inserting an elastic through the channel. So we have about 3.5 inches or sorry, we have about 2.5 inches up here, um, tied up in our waistband. So I like to start my pocket about 3.5 inches down from this upper edge. So when you align your pocket bag on your pattern, have that upper edge at about 3.5 inches down. So you can trace that side seam. And then on your pattern, you'll want to mark the upper edge of where your pocket bag fabric is going to align and then where the lower edge is going to sit as well. So I have a little mark down here to note where to align this pocket bag. So transfer those markings from the front piece. You want to transfer them onto the back pattern piece as well and then you'll transfer those to your fabric. However, you want to transfer those marks, I just put a little clip into the edge of my fabric and we have half inch seam allowances on this pattern. So make sure you clip in only about a quarter inch into the seam allowance to note that. So from your pocket bag pattern, you'll want to cut four pieces, two for each pocket bag. So there's how to add a pocket bag piece. So here's my pocket bag piece cut out and here is my front pattern piece and I've marked on the side scene with my little notch, the upper and lower edge of my pocket bag. So we want to align our pocket bag with the edge of the fabric here aligning the upper edge with the notch and aligning the lower edge with the lower notch. And this is the right side of the fabric. And if your pocket bag piece has a right or wrong side, we want to align the right sides together. And even though we have a half inch seam allowance on this pattern, when we stitch this pocket bag to our front piece, we're going to use a 38 inch seam allowance because we want that pocket bag to sit inside of the seam allowance a little bit just so that the pocket bag fabric isn't sort of poking out of your seam. So I'm gonna bring my machine in here and we're going to sew this with our 3/8 inch seam allowance and I'm back stitching at the upper edge and max itch at the lower edge. So there my pocket bag is attached. Now, we're going to flip this open and I'm gonna bring my iron in and give that a little press and we have our seam allowance pressed toward the pocket bag. Yeah. All right. So there's my pocket bag attached to my front and I have done the same thing. Here's my back piece. So I transferred my, my pocket alignment marks to the back as well. And I have my pocket stitched onto my back, stitched on and pressed out and we're going to align our front and our back right sides together and we want to align the pocket bag, upper edges and we're going to pin and this is our, our side seam here. So we're going to pin all the way down and around this pocket bag. So we're gonna be stitching this with a half inch seam. And when we get down here, half inch below the upper edge of this pocket bag, we're going to stop with the needle down pivot so that we can stitch around this pocket bag. And when we get back around here, we're going to stitch half inch beyond this edge. Stop with the needle down, pivot and stitch the rest of our side seam. So attaching the pocket bag on first allows us to then stitch our side seam all in one go. All right. So we're going to bring this to the machine and use my straight stitch and a half inch seam. I'm back stitching at the upper edge of my seam. And when we get about half inch below the upper edge here, lift the press our foot pivot that around. Once you know how to add pocket bags to the side scene of a pattern, it's like the world is your oyster. You can add pockets to anything. I definitely need pockets in my pajama pants. So once we get a little bit past that pocket bag, seam, we're going to pivot and stitch down the remainder of our side scene. Yeah. And if you have a surger. You can zip through this really easily and finish off your seam allowances all in one go. I'm going to come back in and finish my steam allowances after I stitch this. Ok. There's my seam stitched. Now, I want to finish off these seam lounges, especially my, my flannel here loves to fray. So I am going to choose an overcast stitch. You can use a zigzag stitch, you can do a straight stitch and then pink the edges. However you want to finish off those seam ounces to trap the raw edges and make sure that that is not going to fray. I have a lot of overcast stitches to choose from on my machine. I'm not going to bother finishing off the edges here. We have, it's, it's not a, a straight grain edge. We have a curve here. So that's not really going to fray and because this seam is kind of trapped already, I'm going to go in there afterward with some pinking shears and, and clip those to cut down on fraying. So with this overcast stitch that I'm using, I can actually, I can change the length and the width of it as much as I want. And on this singer, I can do that for all of my decorative stitches. I can change the length and the width. So I can really customize all of my stitches and what I'm doing just sort regular utility stitch like this. I can turn my speed up and zip this through, OK. My seam here is finished and I can come in with my scissors and trim off these little edges here that have come out and my, my finishing stitch is going to keep any more threads from poking out there. So there is my outer seam. And now for my in seam, the back pant leg is wider than the front. So we're going to have to pull that back leg back a little bit to align our raw edges. And I'm going to flip that over. So we're going to do the same thing here. We are going to align our raw edges of our in seam and I'm going to pin all the way down. We're going to stitch our in seam using our half inch seam allowance and do the same thing to finish our raw edges. All right, I have my in seam stitched and my edge finished off and you'll want to press these seam allowances to one side to get a nice crisp finish for your side seam and for your in. So we're going to set our pant leg aside for a moment and we're going to bring our cuff in. So our cuff is it this rectangle and we're going to do a fun decorative stitch down this cuff. And my singer se 91 80 is also an embroidery machine. So you can embroider on your cuff as well. But because I have so many fantastic decorative stitches to choose from. I wanted to play around with those. So to mark off your your decorative stitched area and figure out what area you have to work with. We're going to start by folding this in half and press that in half and this front half is going to be the, the outward facing half of your cuff. And I've already started marking my lines. So I have a we have a half inch seam allowance here. So you want to mark half inch from this upper raw edge and then between that seam line and this lower fold line, that is the area that you have to stitch on for your fun decorative stitches. So before you start stitching on your cuff, you wanna test your decorative stitches to play around and see how you want to combine those stitches and also how you want to customize those stitches. You can customize, like I mentioned, the width and the length of all of your decorative stitches. So you can play around with that. And while you're test stitching, you also want to test out what sort of stabilization you need on the wrong side of the fabric because you want a little bit of something to stabilize. You know, even if you're using a quilting weight cotton, which is very stable on its own, you'll want something behind to stabilize it. So whether that is uh wash away stabilizer, a tear away stabilizer like this. Um Anything that would, that you would use for embroidery is, is something that you can use behind for your decorative stitches as well. You can also use tissue paper. So if you have kind of a lightweight fabric, this tissue paper acts like a lightweight tear away stabilizer because it's just, it's paper just like your tear away stabilizer. It's just a little more light weight and you can use one layer of tissue paper. You can fold it in half and use two layers behind your stitches. And then when you're done stitching, you can just tear it away from the edge of your stitches just like you would with a regular tear away stabilizer. So that's just a little tip that you can use. I'm going to use my tea away stabilizer and I want to make sure I'm marking my uh my alignments for my decorative stitches. And from all of my testing of my decorative stitches, I know that the stitches I'm using are a quarter inch tall. So the lines that I'm marking are the center line of my stitches. So I'm marking a line 3/8 of an inch away from my seam line and let me darken this up so that I can see when I'm stitching. So 3/8 inch from my seam line, that will be the center line of my first stitch and then three eights from that, it's going to be the center line of my next stitch and I'm going to get three lines of stitching along my cuff and you can use three different stitches. You can use three of the same stitches. You can choose your design and it's all up to you. And on my se 91 80 I also have um I have a couple different fonts in my decorative stitches so I can type something out and stitch out a name. Stitch out a little saying. So I'm marking all of my stitching lines. So here are my three stitching lines and I'm going to place my tea away stabilizer underneath and I'm going to stitch. Not on this first line. That's my seam line on this second line. That is my first line for my decorative stitches. And I put some aqua thread on my machine so that I have a very visible decorative stitch so I can scroll through my stitch menu, select my stitch and I'm going to bump the length up a little bit and I'm going to slide this under the foot so that my, my marked line is right at the center line of the foot. The stabilizer underneath this fabric is important to um to help the fabric hold up to these stitches just like if you're doing embroidery and while you're stitching, you might see some puckers around the, the stitches and a lot of that will press out. But if you're getting a lot of puckers, you might need to change the stabilizer that you're using, use something a little bit heavier weight to help your fabric hold up to all these stitches that we're laying down and you don't have to go all the way to the edge because we're going to have a half inch seam back here. And there is my beautiful line of decorative stitches. So everything is nice and flat and on the wrong side here, I can just tear this away and you want to hold on to your stitches with one hand and just tear this away with the other. You don't wanna pull hard and pull on your stitches and there's a uh a small amount of this stabilizer that's going to remain behind the stitches and that's fine. It's not going to add any stiffness to your cup or anything. And I like to tear the stabilizer away from each line of stitching before I stitch the next. Simply because once you get three lines of stitching on this piece of stabilizer, it makes it kind of hard to tear the stabilizer away from between the lines of stitching. So I'm just going to tear this away and then I can use the rest of this stabilizer behind the next line of stitching. So you can give that a press before you start on your next line and choose whatever decorative stitch you want to use next, change up the settings if you want and you're going to do the same thing on each of these subsequent lines of stitching so that you get something that looks like this. An alternative option to decorative stitching on your cuff is embroidery with the singer Se 9 You'll enjoy over 150 built in embroidery designs. Access to my Sonet which gives you thousands of additional designs to choose from in the Myson Library plus machine notifications to your phone through my Sonet connectivity, whether it's embroidery or decorative stitching with the se +91 80. Your project is sure to stand out. Now to attach this. We're going to fold this in half and we're going to stitch the back seam or the, the seam of the cuff with a half inch seam allowance. All right, here's my cuff. So I'm going to, you can take this to the iron and press that seam open. I'm just going to do a little finger press. Now we get to attach our cuff to the lower edge of our pants. So I'm going to pull my pants right side out and I like to align the cuff seam with the in seam of the pants just because I feel like that hides the seam a little bit. So I'm going to get the cuff right sides together with the pants, align the in seam with the cough seam and I'm going to align my raw edges all the way around. So this should fit perfectly in here make sure that side seam is laying flat. And because we have kind of a small area that we're working with here, I'm going to take the machine bed off so that I can slide this up under and I'm going to stitch with my half inch seam allowance. All right. So there is my cuff attached and I'm going to actually pull this wrong side out so that I can press this. And when I press this, I'm pressing the cuff seam downward. And then we're going to fold this up along our centerfold line. And then we're going to tuck this raw edge of our cuff down so that the fold of the cuff sits just at our previous stitching line. And because we're going to stitch this from the right side, I want my pin to go in on the right side and we're going to stitch this right on the cuff. We're going to do a little top stitching on the cuff. And if we align this fold right at our previous stitching line, we are going to be sure to catch that fold on the wrong side. So this is encasing our seam allowances beautifully. And I'm going to flip this right side out again carefully because I have all these pins in here and with the machine bed still off, going to slide this up and I'm going to stitch just on the cuff. So I'm stitching just a tiny bit onto the cup and I'm aligning this seam with this toe of my presser foot so that I can get a nice even scene here. And as this goes around, we have to pull what went behind the foot back up in front, we've reached where we began. So I'm going to do a little back stitch to lock that and then use my automatic thread cutter to pull that off. So my cuff is attached and I have my nice line of top stitching here on my cuff. So you're going to do the same thing with your other pant leg. So here's mine and to stitch these together, we are going to turn one wrong side out and we want to insert one pant leg into the other with right sides together. So I'm going to tuck this pant leg down in and we wanna make sure our in seams are matched. So here's my seam. Now, the, when we stitch the crotch sea, we have right sides together and we have the back against the back and the front against the front. So we want to make sure our in seam is matching and because I have my seam allowances finished together, I want one seam to go one way and one the other and that's called nesting your seams. And that just helps to kind of mitigate the bulk right here. All right, we're going to stitch this seam with our half inch seam allowance and I'm going to slide my machine bed back on here and we're going to stitch this seam and we're also then going to finish our seam allowances just like we did for our pant leg seams. All right. I have stitched and finished this crotch seam. Now I can pull my one pant leg out of the other. And the last step is to do the waistband. So we're going to pull our pant leg out. So we have everything right side out. So here are our pants, there are our pockets sunk down into the side seam. So now we're going to mark our upper edge for our waistband casing. So what we're going to do is fold the upper edge down a half inch and press and then we're going to fold it down another one inch and a press and we have three quarter inch elastic to go through our casing. Since we have a one inch casing, you don't want to try to use one inch elastic in this one inch casing, it's going to be a tight fit and it'll be kind of frustrating to try and get that through. So if you have one inch elastic that you want to use, just make sure you're folding down your casing a little bit, a little bit more so that, that elastic has enough wiggle room to slide through. So we have this pressed down half inch all the way around and you can use your seam gauge to make sure you're getting that correct. I'm just kind of eyeballing my half inch. But when it comes to folding down my one inch, I am going to measure this. And what I'm going to do is because I'm folding this down one inch. I'm going to mark two inches from my fold so that when I fold this down so that the fold reaches that mark. I know I'm getting one inch. So it's an easy way whenever you're folding something down, you can just double that and mark and then fold that in. Yeah. Now when I stitch this casing down, I want to make sure I leave an opening for threading my elastic through. So right at this back edge, I'm going to leave just a couple of inches and I'm going to leave it next to my back seam and to remind myself to leave that opening, I'm going to do some perpendicular pins. So I'm going to start from one side of my opening and using my straight stitch. I'm going to just edge stitch this fold. I'm going to back stitch to lock that and I'm just stitching right close to this fold all the way around. When I go over my seams, I'm slowing down a little bit because I have a little bit of bulk there. Now, as we come up to the other side of our opening, we're going to back stitch. So here's my casing up here and we're going to grab our elastic, our three quarter inch wide elastic. And I have a safety pin on one end for threading this through and on the other end, I'm going to pin my elastic to my seam allowance just to be sure. I don't accidentally lose that end in the casing as I'm threading it through. So I'm going to thread this through, making sure not to get my elastic twisted within the casing. I'm going to thread this all the way through. And as we come up to our side seams, we might have to kind of wiggle the safety pin a little bit to get it passed the seam allowance and we're going to go all the way around. All right, I have my elastic threaded all the way through. So I'm going to remove my pins and we're going to join these elastic ends together. So we're going to lap these over and I'm going to zigzag on each raw edge of my elastic. Now, the length that you cut your elastic is up to you, I will usually cut my elastic at or slightly smaller than my waist circumference. So that when I lap these ends over, it'll make my elastic slightly smaller than my waist. So that it helps to have that negative ease to help hold the pants up around your waist. So we're going to distribute all of these gathers around our elastic, making sure the elastic isn't twisted anywhere. And we're going to then finish off our opening. So we're just going to bring this back under the machine and use our straight stitch to finish off our opening. So there are my casing is all finished. Once we get our elastic flattened out, we can distribute all those gathers around. And there we have our pajama pants completed. So we have our pocket on the inside. We have our beautiful decorative stitched cuff and with the singer sc 91 80 you can see how easy it is to stitch up a pair of pajama pants and to really customize whatever decorative stitching you want on your garment and have something cozy to lounge in.