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Nicki LaFoille

Pattern Hack: Chevron Color Blocking

Nicki LaFoille
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Duration:   18  mins

Learn how to add an angled decorative seam to almost any sewing project to create a chevron-style effect. This versatile technique can be used for color blocking, incorporating contrasting fabrics, or inserting decorative trim. Nicki LaFoille shows you how to achieve a clean, professional result.

This angled seam technique can be incorporated into garments or other sewing projects. Nicki begins by demonstrating how to draw an angled line directly onto a pattern to establish a new seamline. Cut the pattern along this line, then add seam allowances to both newly created edges, matching the seam allowance used elsewhere on the pattern.

Because angled seams may be cut on the bias, they can easily stretch or distort. To help stabilize the fabric, Nicki recommends applying stay tape to the wrong side of the seam. For this demonstration, she uses SewkeysE Extremely Fine Fusible Woven. Link = https://emmaseabrooke.com/product-category/tapes/ stay tape.

Nicki shows how to fuse the stay tape along the wrong side of the seamline to prevent the bias edge from stretching out of shape. She then demonstrates how to sew the two angled sections together while maintaining a smooth, accurate seam.

Before stitching, mark the seam allowance on the wrong side of the fabric with a pencil or fabric marker. These guidelines provide a clear visual reference for exactly where to pivot at the point of the angled seam.

With the lower section of the pattern facing up, stitch toward the point and stop with the needle down precisely where the marked seamlines meet. Clip into the corner up to, but not through, the stitching to release the seam allowances. If necessary, remove the fabric from beneath the presser foot to make the clip. Then align the remaining raw edges and continue stitching outward from the point.

Finally, Nicki explains how to troubleshoot the seam if you notice pulling or drag lines around the point, helping you create a smooth, polished chevron seam.

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