![stitching stitching](https://d2culxnxbccemt.cloudfront.net/craft/content/uploads/articles/uploads/2013/05/Screen-Shot-2013-05-15-at-10.38.32-AM.png)
Take a look at your jeans or a men’s dress shirt and it’s likely you’ll spot flat fell seams. On the outside of the garment there’s a pair of stitch lines, while the inside is all tidy without any raw seam edges. If you’ve wondered how it’s done, it’s not magic — sewing a flat fell seam is a technique every garment sewer can (and should!) learn.
Flat Fell Seam
Level: Easy
What You Need
Instructions
1. Pin
![flat fell seams flat fell seams](https://d2culxnxbccemt.cloudfront.net/craft/content/uploads/articles/uploads/2013/05/Screen-Shot-2013-05-15-at-10.34.00-AM.png)
Pin the fabric of the seam together, wrong sides facing.
2. Stitch
![sew seam sew seam](https://d2culxnxbccemt.cloudfront.net/craft/content/uploads/articles/uploads/2013/05/Screen-Shot-2013-05-15-at-10.34.32-AM.png)
Sew the seam at the project’s allotted seam allowance. (We used ⅝”.)
3. Press
![press seam press seam](https://d2culxnxbccemt.cloudfront.net/craft/content/uploads/articles/uploads/2013/05/Screen-Shot-2013-05-15-at-10.34.59-AM.png)
Press the seam open on both sides of the fabric.
4. Trim
![trim trim](https://d2culxnxbccemt.cloudfront.net/craft/content/uploads/articles/uploads/2013/05/Screen-Shot-2013-05-15-at-10.35.30-AM.png)
Trim one side of the seam allowance down to ¼”. Do not trim the other side.
5. Fold
![fold fold](https://d2culxnxbccemt.cloudfront.net/craft/content/uploads/articles/uploads/2013/05/Screen-Shot-2013-05-15-at-10.36.28-AM.png)
Press the untrimmed seam allowance over the seam and on top of the trimmed side. Fold the pressed side under, tucking the raw edge into the fold.
![press the fold press the fold](https://d2culxnxbccemt.cloudfront.net/craft/content/uploads/articles/uploads/2013/05/Screen-Shot-2013-05-15-at-10.36.53-AM.png)
Press the fold, making sure the raw edge is fully tucked under and the flap left is the same width along the seam.
6. Finish
![line up line up](https://d2culxnxbccemt.cloudfront.net/craft/content/uploads/articles/uploads/2013/05/Screen-Shot-2013-05-15-at-10.37.22-AM.png)
Line up your fabric in your machine so the stitching is close to the fold. Stitch along the edge of the fold, trapping all the raw edges inside.
![](https://d2culxnxbccemt.cloudfront.net/craft/content/uploads/2013/05/03164601/screen-shot-2013-05-15-at-10-38-32-am.png)
That’s it! You’ve just finished a neat and tidy flat fell seam.
If there is no need for a pattern seam allowance for fit, would it work to line up the two raw edges ¼ “ away from each and sew ½ back? This would eliminate trimming.
Fab finish. Will be giving this a try for sure.
Thanks for sharing. I love the look of this finished seam as it looks professional and gives the garment a high-end feel. I’ve seen this done by hand too.
It would be more clear if the photos in step 5 were at the same orientation as the other photos.
Thank you for sharing it. Was sewing a dress shirt with full on french seams, in arm holes and sides. I found it too thick at the intersections under the arm. So flat felt save the day!!