Shirtmaking Details: Beyond the Basics
David Page Coffin
Class Preview
1:36
- In-depth Instruction; over 177 mins
- On-demand video access anytime
- Bonus downloadable PDF resources
- Access to class Q&A
Beyond the Basic Shirt
25:58
Meet designer David Page Coffin and take a look at shirt anatomy. With an understanding of the constants in a pattern, you can easily change the variables. You'll see how David's mini-muslins aid in the design process and save time, then learn how to get the right fit on the key pattern piece, the yoke.
Collars With a Stand
28:53
Stand collars are a good place to start with designing and refining. Using a template included with your class materials, David walks you through shaping, adding interfacing and getting the perfect curve as you sew. You'll also learn point-turning tips and the burrito technique to attach stand to neckline.
The Convertible Collar
20:30
The versatile convertible collar has a facing and a variable roll line. Begin with a straightforward method of assembly, attaching the collar to the facing and shirt back. David also demonstrates how to incorporate a back yoke, with the advantage of providing a full facing and better shirt fit.
The Combination Collar
20:29
David's favorite shirt collar is the combination or Italian collar, which integrates elements of shawl and convertible collars and offers myriad design options. Common in vintage patterns, it's rare today, but you can make your own pattern pieces with the included templates and David's guidance.
Plackets & Placket Variations
28:17
Release your inner sewing geek by mastering sleeve placket design. David deconstructs the pattern for you, then walks you through the marking, cutting, sewing and pressing process. Change up the placket's size and style, even adding an integrated cuff, elbow patch or extra tucks for ease of movement.
Shaped Details: Pockets, Yokes & More
23:10
If you can draw a pleasing shape with the aid of a curved ruler, you can create a template for pressing and sewing that shape perfectly every time. Design unique patch pockets, a shaped yoke and other appliquéd elements for your shirts, and add double topstitching. David shows you how!
Putting It All Together
28:55
Finish class with an understanding of construction order and how it's affected by details you add to your pattern. For example, hem and side seams are sewn before sleeves if you add a tiny gusset with your rolled hem foot. David shows how to sew this elegant detail, as well as setting in sleeves.
Go beyond standard patterns with techniques for making a shirt that looks like it came from a designer boutique. Renowned sewing instructor David Page Coffin teaches you how custom details can completely transform basic shirt patterns. David begins by breaking down the shirt silhouette and giving you tips for adjusting the yoke. Delight in the details as you discover how to shape, sew and attach a stand, convertible and combination collar. You’ll learn to use the burrito technique, sew a variable roll line and cut your own collar pattern. Once your collars look sharp, see how to mark, cut, sew and press perfect sleeve plackets. Even add refined details with custom cutting and pressing templates. Move on to learning techniques for adding pockets and topstitching. Finish with tips on construction order and how to incorporate new details into your pattern.
David Page Coffin
David Page Coffin has been an editor at Threads magazine for 18 years. He's also the author of Shirtmaking: Developing Skills for Fine Sewing (Taunton Press, 1998), Making Trousers (Creative Publishing, 2009) and The Shirtmaking Workbook (Creative Publishing, 2015). David has also taught sewing and tailoring workshops throughout the United States, Canada and the United Kingdom.
Bonus materials available after purchase