Create Any Size: Pattern Grading for Sewers (DVD + Streaming)

Increase or decrease the size of any pattern while staying true to the fit, proportions and design details of the original. Find out how as you work through four included practice patterns with sewing expert Kathleen Cheetham’s simplified methods. Master the basics as you grade down a multi-size bodice pattern, including the armscye, neckline and darts. Then, grade up a multi-size pants pattern with tips for grading the crotch point, adjusting darts and working with pockets and waistbands. Take your skills further as you grade down a single-size, sleeveless top pattern. Grade up a single-size skirt pattern using the cut-and-spread method that’s the basis of all grading. Next, learn to grade darts, seams, notches, facings and collars on single-size patterns. Plus, see how to grade sleeves with confidence. Discover grading and never pass up a promising pattern for lack of the right size!

NOTE: If you’d like to purchase only the DVD for this class, you may do so through this link. (Please note, any class PDF materials are not on the DVD itself. You must have streaming access to download those materials associated with the class.)

Introduction to Grading (16:24)
Meet your instructor, Kathleen Cheetham, and learn more about the practice and purpose of pattern grading. Kathleen discusses the tools you’ll need and explains how pattern grading can benefit you as a pattern maker or home sewer.

Multi-Size Pattern: Grading Down (31:06)
If you found a multi-sized pattern you like, but its smallest size is still too large, you can grade it down one or two sizes using tools as simple as a business card, straight edge and French curve. Kathleen walks you through the process of grading down a bodice by one size, both back and front. You’ll see how to tackle tricky points like the armscye and neckline, and how to grade down notches, tucks and darts.

Multi-Size Pattern: Grading Up (21:31)
The same principles for grading down a size can be used to grade a pattern up two sizes. Kathleen demonstrates how to grade a pants pattern up by two sizes, including moving the crotch point, adjusting darts and marking pocket notches. Then learn how to handle details such as a pocket or waistband.

Grading a Single-Size Pattern (25:20)
A single-size pattern lacks extra grading lines to guide you, but you can calculate your own with Kathleen’s easy-to-follow grade rule chart. Work along with Kathleen using small-scale pattern pieces for a sleeveless top (included in your class materials) to grade down one size while maintaining the exact proportions.

Single-Size Pattern: Grading Up (32:27)
Take a single-size skirt pattern and grade it up two sizes using the cut-and-spread method. Kathleen shows you how to use the same principles from previous lessons to add width and length evenly across a pattern.

Single-Size Pattern: The Details (35:59)
Having mastered the skills to grade the larger pieces of a single-size pattern up or down, you’re now ready to dive into details such as the bust, torso and shoulder darts of a blouse. Learn how to reposition and resize your darts, adjust seams and notches, and grade facings and collar pieces to match your graded pattern.

Single-Size Pattern: Sleeve (15:24)
Your final single-size grading challenge is getting the sleeves correctly proportioned and notched for easing into the bodice. Kathleen walks you through the steps and shows you how to “walk” your seams and double-check your work. Finally, you’ll learn how to stack your graded patterns for a final inspection just as professional pattern makers do!

Kathleen Cheetham

Kathleen Cheetham teaches workshops and sells her pattern line at sewing consumer and trade shows throughout the U.S. and Canada. She also runs a custom tailoring shop for women and teaches classes on fitting and design. Her articles have regularly appeared in Threads magazine, and her line of patterns has been featured in Sew News, Threads, Australian Stitches, and Sewing World UK. She is the author of Perfect Plus: Sew a Mix-and-Match Wardrobe for Plus and Petite-Plus Sizes.

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