A lining serves as extra finishing touch that makes a garment more comfortable to wear, looks great inside and actually saves a lot of time when it comes to seam finishes. Some sewing patterns don’t include the pattern pieces needed to create the lining, but it is easy to do on your own.
Image via SunnyGal Studio
In this post, we’ll show how to make a lining pattern for a blazer jacket.
By the way, here are a few tips on choosing the best fabric for your lining.
Step 1: Trace the jacket front
After cutting out the jacket front and the jacket front facing in your fashion fabric, you’ll use the pattern pieces to create the lining pieces. I like to trace the jacket front pattern piece onto tissue or pattern paper, as we will be drawing on it and then cutting it, and I like to preserve my original pattern piece for future use. It’s not necessary to trace the facing pattern piece, as it is just used to overlay and trace an edge.
Step 2: Overlay the facing onto the jacket front
Place the jacket facing piece over the front jacket piece as shown, matching up all edges and markings. It is important to include your pattern markings (like dots and notches) on the jacket front, since it will be sewn to other pattern pieces (like the sleeves) that don’t need modifications for the lining.
Step 3: Draw a line on the jacket front at the inside edge of the facing
Trace the facing edge onto the main jacket piece where it overlaps, as shown with the blue line on the jacket front piece above.
Step 4: Create the seam allowance
Now that the edge of the facing is established, add the seam allowance. Mark a line 1¼” away from the blue edge line, toward the jacket center front. We use 1¼” to account for a seam allowance on the lining front piece and the front facing. That is, you will sew the facing edge to the lining edge using a 5/8″ seam allowance.
Step 5: Trim away the jacket pattern piece edge
Now that the seam allowance is marked, cut away the portion of the pattern piece that is not needed. In the jacket front example, you will be cutting away the portion toward the jacket center front.
Here’s the finished jacket lining front pattern piece
Now the jacket front pattern piece for the lining is finished. For this example, which has princess side seam panels, the original pattern pieces for the sides and the sleeves can be use with no changes when cutting out the lining. The pattern piece outlined in red is the newly created lining pattern piece, and the jacket facing, outlined in blue, would be cut out in the fashion fabric. Stitching lines are noted so you can see how they match up.
For the rest of the lining on this jacket, some modification is needed for the back pattern piece as well.
Step 7: Trace the back facing
For this pattern, the jacket center back has a center seam. However, the facing is typically cut on the fold as shown. Place the back neck facing over the jacket center back, matching at the shoulder seam and trace the outer edge of the facing onto the center back pattern piece.
Step 8: Add the seam allowance
As with the front, add the seam allowance to the jacket center back lining piece, shown above in green. Again we are using 2 x 5/8″ — which is 1¼” to account for a 5/8″ seam allowance.
Step 9: Trim away
Trim away the extra portion on the center back pattern piece as shown.
Step 10: Check the pattern piece
Place the facing over the now-adjusted center back pattern piece to make sure they line up. When sewn together, the facing and lining piece should be the same dimensions as the original back pattern piece. The seam allowance of 5/8″ is folded back here to show how they line up and why you need to create a 1¼” distance from the original facing outline.
Step 11: Compare front and back pattern pieces
Once the front and back lining pieces are made, place them together at the shoulder seam to make sure they match up. True up the edges if there are any discrepancies. The lining pieces, outlined in red, would be sewn to the facing pieces shown above. Then the rest of the lining is constructed with the existing pattern pieces, such as the sleeves, and any side panels.
Step 12: Create a center back lining pleat
A center back pleat in the lining is a good thing to add to any jacket or coat lining pattern. This allows the lining to open up with normal movement. In a jacket, the back of the armhole is a spot that takes a lot of strain, so adding this pleat gives the lining some extra fabric to avoid tearing. In this example, the center back pattern piece had a seam, but here I have decided to place it on the fold, about ½” away from that fold, so the result will be a nice 1″ pleat in the center back of the lining. The waist shaping in that seam can be eliminated or you can make some darts for shaping.
Once your lining pattern is created, you can cut and sew the garment as usual.