I prefer to design simple patterns that are (relatively) easy to knit. It might be redundant to say so, but I design socks that I’d want to knit. I want a pattern that looks fantastic, but isn’t ...
I prefer to design simple patterns that are (relatively) easy to knit. It might be redundant to say so, but I design socks that I’d want to knit. I want a pattern that looks fantastic, but isn’t ridiculously complicated. I want it to be easy, without being boring. I want to challenge myself a little, but not make things more difficult than they need to be.
I love cables, twisted stitches, and lace. But not all at the same time! I try to design multiple sizes for each pattern since legs and feet come in all sizes. I also expect knitters to take liberties with the instructions and be able to substitute their favorite heel, toe or cuff if they so choose. I’m also pleased when a pattern can be converted into toe up without too much effort, although not all stitch patterns lend themselves to this.
I do have every pattern test knitted to ensure accuracy and to get different perspectives on each pattern. However, I am human, so mistakes might happen. If they do, I’ll get them fixed right away.
Inspired by a dear friend who convinced me to give toe-up socks a chance, these socks are a quick and satisfying knit. The lines flow into one another, reminding me of swirls of water or ripples on a field of snow on a winter morning.
The pattern include 2 different heel construction methods: a short row heel or using Cat Bordhi's Riverbed heel construction (included with permission) as described in Cat Bordhi's book New Pathways for Sock Knitters, Book One. Different knitters will prefer different methods and learn which style fits their feet best.
Rather than try to combine the 2 sets of instructions, which can create unnecessary confusion, I have decided to duplicate the pattern instructions, one set with the short row heel (original pattern) and one with the new Cat Bordhi Riverbed heel. That way you don't have to jump from one section to the other or guess if a section applies to you.
The pattern is intended to be customizable. No two pairs of feet are the same and it's easy to customize the width of the cuff or leg portion of the sock. That's what I love about this pattern (the back of the sock is a simple broken 2x2 rib), if you need to make the circumference of the sock bigger or smaller, simply adjust the number of stitches by adding or removing repeats of these rib stitches. The middle 4 sts of the charted pattern can also be eliminated to make a smaller sock. Note that adjustments to the pattern may change yardage requirements.
30 sts = 4 inches in stocking stitch; blocked
420 yards of Fingering weight