from LaurieBea Knitting
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Do I have enough yarn for this shawl? What weight do I need? I don't know (IDK) but that's all right! Just grab some yarn that's begging to be knit, cast on at the bottom and don't stop until you're ready to, or until you are almost out of yarn. Then bind off, block and enjoy.
This shawl is perfect for that special yarn that you want to use every single bit of. Maybe you've got some handspun, but you don't know how much. Or a beautiful gradient. Give it a whirl.
The pattern can be done in any weight yarn - your choice. It doesn't get more flexible than that!
The shawl is knit from the bottom up in a simple garter stitch pattern with eyelets. Increases are worked at the beginning and end of each right side row. Wrong side rows are for resting. The eyelet pattern is a ten row repeat, but each right side row is the same except for a few center stitches.
Here's a sample of results from my test knitters:
* Lace weight - 380 yd (347 m) on US 3 (3.25 mm) gave 46 x 18.5 in (117 x 47 cm)
* Fingering weight - 440 yd (400 m) on US 6 (4 mm) gave 60 x 30 in (152 x 76 cm)
* Fingering weight - 505 yd (460 m) on US 5 (3.75 mm) gave 46 x 21 in (117 x 53 cm)
* Sport weight - 450 yd (411 m) on US 7 (4.5 mm) gave 52 x 22 in (132 x 56 cm)
* Worsted weight - 402 yd (367 m) on US 10 (6 mm) gave 75 x 26 in (190 x 66 cm)
* Worsted weight - 380 yd (347 m) on US 8 (5 mm) gave 46 x 26 in (117 x 66 cm)
* Worsted weight - 737 yd (674 m) on US 10.5 (6.5 mm) gave 82 x 35 in (208 x 89 cm)
400 yards of Fingering weight
I've crocheted just about my whole life. I taught myself to knit in the early 2000s and haven't slowed down since. I've also gone through counted cross-stitch and needlepoint periods.
I almost always modify knitting patterns I like, so about a year ago I started designing and publishing my own patterns.
All of the patterns that I sell have been tech edited and test knit before release.