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One Pattern, Many Looks: Pants

with Kathy Ruddy
One Pattern, Many Looks: Pants
Create a versatile block pattern to ensure perfect-fitting pants across an array of style choices. Kathy Ruddy shows you how!

Three styles of waist finish ... three kinds of pockets ... three different leg styles. Kathy Ruddy gives you all these options and more, using a single pants pattern that you'll adjust to fit in any fabric. Make your own tummy-tuck jeans or yoked yoga pants. Never worry again about fit when making a new pair of trousers, jeans or casual pants. Kathy's ready-to-wear secrets will save you time and give you great results. You'll love this no-nonsense approach to real women's bodies and clothing needs.

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Lesson plan


Lesson 1. Meet Kathy Ruddy & Get Started

  • Make a pants pattern block that you'll use again and again. Kathy shows a few patterns she likes and discusses how to work with different fabrics.


Lesson 2. Creating the Pattern Block

  • A pattern block allows you to make design changes onto a basic pant pattern that already fits you perfectly. Kathy shows you how to make your own customized pattern block.


Lesson 3. Refining the Fit

  • Adjusting the geometry of your pattern block allows you to sew pants that fit your shape. Kathy demonstrates how to adjust for such common issues as rounded tummy, flat or round seat or thick legs and thighs.


Lesson 4. Leg Design Changes

  • Kathy talks about adjusting hems, and creating different leg silhouettes such as skinny leg, straight leg, boot fit and bellbottoms.


Lesson 5. Faced Waists & Hidden Zippers

  • In this lesson, you'll learn about creating a waist facing, dealing with waist darts and inserting a hidden zipper. Kathy demonstrates some handy sewing and pressing tools.


Lesson 6. Elastic-Waist Pants

  • Yesterday's elastic-waist pants were frumpy. Today they're called "yoga pants," and they're sleek and fashionable. Learn how to measure, cover and secure different widths of elastic for a smooth, comfortable fit.


Lesson 7. Adding a Fly Zipper

  • Kathy shows you everything you need to know about making a fly front for your custom pants, including how to interface, insert the zipper, make a backstop and add belt loops.


Lesson 8. Slash Pockets

  • Learn how to make slash pockets, including the style you find in those expensive tummy-tuck jeans.Yes, their secret is in the pocket! You won't believe how easy it is to duplicate this look.


Lesson 9. Back Yoke & Patch Pockets

  • Lean more jeans-style detailing for your garment. You'll learn how to draft a rub-off pocket using waxed paper, how to place pockets for a flattering look and how to sew your pockets securely.


Lesson 10. Welt Pockets

  • Kathy reviews different styles of welt pockets for front and back pockets and men's or women's pants. You'll learn how to choose the best style and placement, construct the welt pocket and finish it neatly.

"Up until this class, my pants were definitely a hit-or-miss affair. No longer. I can now see what is different between the pattern and my figure (with all its faults) and also how to interpret and make adjustments. Furthermore, all those fancy impressive-looking welt pockets have been demystified. Lots of little sewing tips from an expert to build confidence to try something new."
avatar - Sleevehead
Colchester, England

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  • Answers from Kathy in our virtual classroom
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