This is my third attempt to reply. It keeps kicking me out, so I hope you haven't got the reply more than once. I only had to alter the sleeves. I chose the size I wear in ready-to-wear. It fit great everywhere. Be careful with the sizes XS and SM. Thank goodness I had extra material, because I cut the wrong size out for the facing. I had never heard of a clapper before. I couldn't even find one locally. So I made my own from a 2x4 piece and used it with my pressing cloth. I couldn't believe what wonderful results it made. Can't wait to see yours.