Silk Doupioni Suit with Seminole piecing

Project Description

What are you most proud of? It always makes me proud to create something with a strong visual impact. I like to sew garments that inspire other sewing enthusiasts and, of course, feature interesting construction techniques! I added additional princess seaming to the back of the jacket to show off contrasting closed slot seams (more obvious when on a real body) which are echoed in the closed slot back seams and inverted pleats of the pants. Contrasting topstitching was also used to further emphasize the seaming details. What advice would you give someone starting this project? Seminole piecework isn't difficult but it does take time and attention to detail. When I created my lapel I did a lot of sketching to figure out what size of strips to cut to get the exact shape and size that I wanted. Also, sewing Seminole piecework on silk doupioni meant that all silk had to be reinforced with fusible interfacing prior to cutting in order to be able to use 1/4" seams. I would never recommend 1/4" seaming on doupioni without interfacing or a similar method to prevent seam slippage. I love sewing doupioni but it does require some advance planning to deal with fraying and slipping issues.

What you will need

  • Silk doupioni
  • in 4 colors
  • PerfectFuse fusible interfacing
  • Bemberg Ambiance rayon lining
  • vintage glass buttons.

Q&A with Katrina Walker

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