First Fitting

Project Description

What are you most proud of? I'm pleased I took the time to do this in the first place! What advice would you give someone starting this project? Take the time to watch everything first. At first I was held up with where exactly to make changes but it's more about using your own measurements and attacking the area rather than an exact "2 inches from this point" kind of approach. My only concern now is to know how much ease to add when I'm making my actual garments as this one is very closely fitting. It could be made up in a stretch fabric as is, but with a woven fabric without stretch I would want some ease there and I'm not sure exactly how much to add. I guess that might be a personal preference thing. Joi, I would appreciate any advice you could give me on where to go from here and what changes I could make to this particular first fit.

What you will need

  • Vogue 1004
  • Fast Track Fitting class and calico

Q&A with julliams

Joi Mahon asked:
Juliette, I am so proud of you! This actually looks right where it needs to be for proportion. So I am going to comment on each photo and walk you through the finishing touches to perfect your fit. First I want to comment on various garments and posture. So this test pattern is like a worksheet to practice the technique. Most people will not walk around wearing this to the mall (please don't LOL). Now that you have evaluated what pattern adjustments you made, you will find that you will make a lot of the same ones to any pattern. If you adjusted your apex then you will probably end up doing that to any pattern. Vertical adjustments always apply and have less to do with ease then they do getting the proportion of the pattern done. Of course measure each pattern as they can vary. Once you have done vertical adjustments your horizontal affect the ease. If you are making a boxy jacket that is loose fitting we know that the jacket will measure bigger then your body measurement because it has design ease. You still want to make sure darts and seams fall into the proportion of your body, then after that you can excess built it. So you are in the driver seat for deciding how loose or baggy a design will fit. Movement and posture. Once we go through the pin fitting and refining of the finishing touches we always have movement lines. No one walks around stiff as a cookie cutter and so we have to consider what is reasonable and what is excessive fabric. That is why I love those angular pinning and extra pinning within a pattern piece. we can remove much of that, but as we bend an elbow or sit the garment does change how it lays on the body. So use your judgement to decide if that amount is reasonable and acceptable or excessive. If it is excessive then pin it out. More comments on each photo. (NOTE: I am doing a fit book due out fall 2014 and I have an entire chapter dedicated to various garments and I walk through the measurements to consider adjusting for that particular garment. So look forward to that. Of course you will be a pro by then.
julliams answered:
OK that makes sense. I mostly wear close fitting clothes so I just need to find out what is comfortable for me - whether that's 2 or 3cm around the waist etc. And it probably depends on what I've had for lunch!!!
Joi Mahon asked:
First Fitting No Changes Photo- so what you have achieved by scaling your pattern in specific areas looks spot on. Seams, darts, points all fall right on your body- HURRAY you do NOT have to slash your pattern pin in extra fabric and mess with messy adjustments. So what do we need to do to make this spotless- Front Torso Only- Not much. Looking at you the left side apex looks great. The right side sits a little higher and is maybe out a touch. I think that may simply be from how you pinned it together in the front so easy fix. So in the fitting lesson I show those nit picky angular pinning that I do between the seams to really get a smooth fit. You can apply that just to the side of the pattern where the side meets the waist. If you look closely there is a bit of angular excess angling toward the apex. Pin that out- according to the fit video and it will be removed from the pattern. Now I want to point out that you have a fuller bust. So ideally for each cup size we have a fitting element (aka dart, seam, gather etc.) We have 2 in this pattern=2 darts. You really could use another such as a smaller bust dart on the side below the larger one. All that extra I just told you to pin out you can also transfer to a small dart. That will give you an even better flawless fit. So as you apply to any other garment pattern know that the more fitting elements the more flawless fit- especially for those of us with extra girls in the front. Overall- to some people this would be a great fit- but with a few tweaks it will be impeccable!
julliams answered:
Yes - what's up with that risen apex. I was so sure I had them perfect so I think it's happened when I pinned or else I simply drew it in the wrong place. The extra dart will be good I think and I will try that.
Joi Mahon asked:
First Fitting Photo Lower body- like the upper torso you are where you need to be with proportion and placement of all lines, darts etc. . . so BRAVO! We have those little tweaks to remove that bit of excess that you see or drag lines- super easy fix- believe it or not I would take about a 1/2 inch tuck across the front only from side seam to side seam. DO this about an inch below where your darts end. This will get some of the drag out. Then at the side seams true up the curve (I would do this by pinning the sides together around your natural hip line wearing undies that create a nice curve (nothing with a string as that creates a dip in the hip). You will have just a bit of drag left and just like the torso you can do that angular pinning. SO pin those angular excess and leave the pins in and simply sew them down and that excess is magically gone. NOTE: you are wearing pants under your fitting shell and that can distort what is going on here so remove the pants to do the finishing. So a horizontal tuck to remove a small amount of excess, true the sides, and pin out any last excess. True up your hem at the very end.
julliams answered:
I had a unitard on underneath which actually was catching the fabric and not letting it hang perfectly. I suspect that some of the lines we see are as a result of the fabric dragging across the cotton lycra which seemed to have a bit of grab.
Joi Mahon asked:
Ok so my computer is not pulling the back images larger but I can still comment. Again, the back is the same as the front- near perfect just need those finishing touches, but hurray you do not need to cut it apart add extra etc. . On the lower half you have just a bit of extra length below the waist- probably from pinning yourself, but actually not bad at all. Remove a bit of length below where the darts end. Take a tuck from side seam to side seam and I am guessing about 3/4 inch or convert to mm. That will remove that small amount of extra you see. True up the side seam if necessary. NOTE: this line or tuck does not need to match at the side seam where you do the tuck in the front. They just need to be parallel to the floor. Meeting at the side is not important cause the front is separate from the back and you fullest part of the back may be lower then the fullest part of the front. Upper Back- almost spot on. My picture is small and I see a bit of that excess but it could depend on your posture. We do not want that too tight as that can also add pull lines. I think if you clip your armhole that will relax and possibly give a little ease in your pinning. You can pin out some of that angular stuff too, but in this case I am thinking that it is posture. I will check back to see if I can pull the photo up larger.
julliams answered:
I thought perhaps I had too much length in the torso at the back. It's so finny to me to realise this because I've always just added an inch to my bodice's figuring I have a long torso - and actually I'm probably high waisted. It's so much better working with your body instead of trying to create the illusion of something it's not.

Skill Level