Joi Mahon asked:
Juliette, I am so proud of you! This actually looks right where it needs to be for proportion. So I am going to comment on each photo and walk you through the finishing touches to perfect your fit. First I want to comment on various garments and posture. So this test pattern is like a worksheet to practice the technique. Most people will not walk around wearing this to the mall (please don't LOL). Now that you have evaluated what pattern adjustments you made, you will find that you will make a lot of the same ones to any pattern. If you adjusted your apex then you will probably end up doing that to any pattern. Vertical adjustments always apply and have less to do with ease then they do getting the proportion of the pattern done. Of course measure each pattern as they can vary. Once you have done vertical adjustments your horizontal affect the ease. If you are making a boxy jacket that is loose fitting we know that the jacket will measure bigger then your body measurement because it has design ease. You still want to make sure darts and seams fall into the proportion of your body, then after that you can excess built it. So you are in the driver seat for deciding how loose or baggy a design will fit.
Movement and posture. Once we go through the pin fitting and refining of the finishing touches we always have movement lines. No one walks around stiff as a cookie cutter and so we have to consider what is reasonable and what is excessive fabric. That is why I love those angular pinning and extra pinning within a pattern piece. we can remove much of that, but as we bend an elbow or sit the garment does change how it lays on the body. So use your judgement to decide if that amount is reasonable and acceptable or excessive. If it is excessive then pin it out. More comments on each photo. (NOTE: I am doing a fit book due out fall 2014 and I have an entire chapter dedicated to various garments and I walk through the measurements to consider adjusting for that particular garment. So look forward to that. Of course you will be a pro by then.