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Project

Couture Linen Summer Dress

Project Description

What are you most proud of? Not giving up, and not giving in to excuses that I couldn't fit, alter, or sew without a pattern sheet full of instructions. There are NO instructions with Lutterloh patterns. I am also proud of these things: * Modifying and successfully fitting a muslin to myself (multiple self-fittings, rippings, and remakes). * Inserting a long invisible zipper in the side (3 tries) and following the steps in the class. * The underlining made a great deal of difference in how the fabric maintains itself while being worn. * FINALLY having the right fabric choice for the garment in terms of print porportion to my size, type, and weight. What advice would you give someone starting this project? The midriff part of the pattern was originally 3 pieces cut on the fold; front, upper back, and lower back so that there were only side seams. Since I'm curvy and small waisted, compared to bust, I cut these pieces (in muslin) NOT on the fold. The front and two backs each had a center seam. For fitting, I was then able to manipulate these midriff pieces by taking in the center back and center front seams (keeping side seams straight) to get a fitted midriff. Then, when I cut the fashion fabric, I took my new muslin piece and made it on the fold again so each piece only had side seams. I'd also suggest using a very light weight lining - not self fabric if using this weight of linen. I would also consider underlinging the top with something much softer than organza to allow the bust to gather and not be so stiff. What advice would you give someone starting this project? The midriff part of the pattern was originally 3 pieces cut on the fold; front, upper back, and lower back so that there were only side seams. Since I'm curvy and small waisted, compared to bust, I cut these pieces (in muslin) NOT on the fold. The front and two backs each had a center seam. For fitting, I was then able to manipulate these midriff pieces by taking in the center back and center front seams (keeping side seams straight) to get a fitted midriff. I ranked this project as advanced only because of the pattern drafting system I used. The technique was not all that difficult and the pattern itself is fairly simple. It is just that there are no assembly instructions with this product. Then, when I cut the fashion fabric, I took my new muslin piece and made it on the fold again so each piece only had side seams. I'd also suggest using a very light weight lining - not self fabric if using this weight of linen. I would also consider underlinging the top with something much softer than organza to allow the bust to gather and not be so stiff.

What you will need

  • Linen and silk organza underlining

Q&A with Jackie G.

Scheri Manson asked:
What a great review. So glad you emjoyed the proces. Your dress is beautiful.
Jackie G. answered:
Oh Scheri - thank you for your kind words. I've made complex garments before for other people, but rarely for myself, and NEVER without a pattern guide sheet! The interesting thing is how utterly engaged I became with this process! I think the simple pattern allowed me to enjoy a more detail process.
Janet Berry asked:
Jackie this is a great dress, That waist detail is wonderful it looks very rich and not crafty cute which I worry about when I do techniques like that to clothes. Bravo!
Jackie G. answered:
Thank you! I have received a lot of compliments. It is more fitted than it seems on the hanger and the midriff looks even nicer.