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A 3D Charm Mug Rug

Let’s get started!

As always, use ¼” seams unless otherwise stated. Read all directions fully before beginning to ensure a smooth process. Feel free to ask questions or leave comments. And please remember to share photos of your finished projects on Craftsy — we LOVE to see your creations!

This design will feature the following techniques: using charm packs, making folded flying geese units, sewing partial seams and using a pillowcase binding. That’s a lot of information for one little mug rug — it’ll be fun!

Save & print this pattern »

1 choose a charm pack

You can choose a charm pack of your choice or use 5″ squares of scraps.

Shop charm packs on sale »

2 select 11 charms

For this mug rug you will need:

  • One charm square for the center
  • Two charm squares for the folded flying geese
  • Two charm squares for the backgrounds
  • Two charm squares for the corner triangles
  • Four charm squares for the backing
  • One 9″ square of batting
3 cutting instructions

Cutting instructions:

  • Center fabric (my green fabric) – Cut one 2 1/2” square.
  • Folded flying geese fabrics (blue and gray) – Cut the charms in half to make two 2 1/2″ x 5″ strips.
  • Background fabrics (whites) – Cut the charms in half both directions to make four 2 1/2″ squares.
  • Corner triangle fabrics (pink) – Cut two charms in half diagonally once for a total of four large triangles.
4 press the four strips in half

Part 1: Creating the folded flying geese units

Step 1:

Fold the strips in half with the wrong sides together and press a seam across the middle. They should now be 2 1/2″ square, folded.

5  layering method

Step 2:

Sandwich a folded strip in between two background squares. These squares will be facing right sides toward the folded strip. The fold should be across the top; you will stitch along the side with four raw edges. Notice that the folded unit in the photo above is 1/4″ offset from the two background squares. This will create a 1/4″ seam allowance once the unit is pressed open.

6 unfold the sewn unit

Step 3:

Once the seam is sewn, unfold the unit and press it open with the pressed line from the strip directly on top of the stitching line. The 1/4″ seam allowance at the top of the point will be important later. The bottom edge of the unit will have extra fabric that will be trimmed off later. 

7 Press open

Sew four of these units and press them all in the same manner. It may be helpful to insert the tip of the iron into the folded unit to get the fabric to lay flat.

8 from the back

Step 4:

On the back of the folded flying geese units, press the seams open.

9 trim the edges even

Step 5:

Once all four units are sewn and pressed, trim the edges along the bottom so that each unit is 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″.

10 block layout

Part 2: Sewing the block

Lay out the folded flying geese units around the center square as shown above. Notice that the construction of this block will require a partial seam to complete the block.

11 sewing the partial seam

Step 1:

Layer the first flying geese unit on top of the center square, right sides together. Take care to line up the top two corners as shown. Begin sewing the pieces together, making sure the folded unit does not shift. Stop sewing approximately halfway to the next seam, as shown above. Back stitch 2-3 stitches to secure the seam. 

12 adding the units

Step 2:

Press the seams away from the folded flying geese unit. Sew the next folded flying geese unit to the center square unit as shown above. Repeat this with the next unit as well. Always press the seam away from the flying geese units.

13 adding the last unit

Step 3:

When adding the last flying geese unit, simply fold the first one out of the way, taking care not to catch it in the seam. 

14 closing the partial seam

Step 4:

Pin the first seam that was left unfinished. The seams will line up with the last unit sewn. Start sewing a few stitches before the first seam ends and continue in the same manner as all of the other seams. Press the block.

15 sewing layout for triangles

The folded flying geese block is now complete. You will be able to lift the folded edges of the units, but all of the raw edges will be securely sewn in place. This extra layer of fabric will add insulation to your mug rug without making it lumpy. This block should be 6 1/2″ square.

Part 3: Adding the corner triangles

16sewing the triangles

Step 1:

Arrange the corner triangles and shown and sew one to each of the opposite sides of the block. Press the seams toward the pink fabric. Repeat with the opposite two sides. 

17 the completed front

Step 2:

Trim the block to 8 1/2″ square after it is pressed.

18 the four backing charms

Part 4: Sew the backing

Sew the the four charms for the backing into a four patch. Pinwheel press the seams (for more information on pinwheel pressing, check out this Craftsy blog post).

19 trim the backing and batting even with the front

Part 5: Assembling the mug rug

Step 1:

Layer the front, the backing and the batting, and trim them to an 8 1/2″ square. Take care to center the backing so that the seams line up with the points on the front.

20 front and backing right sides together

Step 2:

Now, we’ll move on to our pillowcase binding. Notice that the front and the backing are right sides together with the batting on the bottom.

Sew 1/4″ away from the edge all the way around the mug rug. Leave a 3″ opening on one side for turning. This method of closing the edges of a quilted project is called a pillowcase binding because it is finished and can be turned inside out like a pillowcase.

21 snip the corners

Step 3:

After sewing along the edges, snip the corners, being careful not to clip the stitches. This will reduce bulk in the corners. Turn the mug rug right-side out.

23 turning side opening

Step 4: 

Once the mug rug is turned right-side out, press it flat. Then, press the open seams under 1/4″ as shown. You can stitch this opening closed by hand, or you can just stitch it closed with the first line of quilting as I did. An additional line of machine quilting was added around the center square as well as around the pieced unit.

24 the back finished

This is what the quilted mug rug looks like from the back after the threads have been clipped.

25 the front quilted

And this is the front of the finished mug rug!

Save & print this pattern »

I hope you had fun using up some charm squares, making folded flying geese, sewing partial seams and using a pillowcase binding method. Now you can go pour yourself a cup of coffee or tea and enjoy your cute new mug rug! 

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7 Comments

Beth

Excited about this series!! Can’t wait to try this pattern.

Reply
Marilyn Franklin

Love your patterns!

Reply
Evelyn Schnitzler

I like to use Insul=brite in my mug rugs. Keeps the coffee-tea warm lots longer as it has it provides more insulation than cotton batting, Also can be used under your dinner plate to keep your food warm while you eat and not setting on a cold table.

Reply
Mary

Looking forward to this series. Thanks for offering a fun way to learn new skills.

Reply
Bev Wilson

Beautiful, great ideas.

Reply
Vicki

I have one almost finished. I started this morning but had to leave or I would be finished. It is amazingly easy to make. I love it.

Reply
Betty

So cute, can’t wait to try it. Thank you!

Reply

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