Quilting Blog

Learn How to Bind Quilts in 6 Easy Steps!

Do you love quilting but struggle with the binding?

I love making every part of a quilt, including the binding, so I thought I’d share my favorite method for how to bind quilts with you. It’s called continuous-length, double-fold, straight-of-grain binding. That’s a mouthful, but it’s how I finish all my quilts.

Quilt Binding Strips

Follow along to learn how to bind quilts with my six-step method!

Or, watch quilting expert Angela Walters show you the process in the video below.

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FREE Quilt Binding Guide

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Step 1: Calculate and cut your binding strips

Measuring a quilt for binding

Photo via Craftsy member Christa Quilts

Measure the perimeter of your quilt by adding the length and width of your quilt and multiplying that by 2. Then add an extra 10″ to deal with seams and corners. For example, my quilt measures 56″ x 70″.

Here’s how I calculate my binding:

56″ + 56″ + 70″ + 70″ + 10″ = 262″ inches needed

Next, take this measurement and divide it by 40. This will tell you the number of strips you will need to cut, with 40″ of usable fabric. My number is 6.55, which I will round up to 7 strips of fabric.

Cutting binding strips

I like my binding to finish approximately 1/4″ on both front and back. Therefore I will cut my strips at 2 1/4″ wide. You can cut them wider and use a wider seam allowances if you prefer more of the binding to show.

I need to cut a total of seven 2 1/4″ wide strips to bind my quilt.

Step 2: Sew the binding into a continuous length

Place two strips with right sides together at a 90-degree angle. Sew them together at a 45-degree angle across the diagonal. Sewing mitered seams like this helps distribute the bulk. If needed, you can draw a straight line across the diagonal or press one of the ends along the diagonal to form a sewing line.

Mitered Seam

If you are using solid fabric like me, it will be a little trickier to keep track of which is the “right” side. You can use a pin or piece of tape to designate the right side if you like. Be sure to trim the starting edge of your binding at a 45-degree angle, too.

Trim binding on angle

Step 3: Press the binding

Press the binding wrong sides together along the entire length.


Iron the binding

Step 4: Attach the binding to the quilt

Trim off the excess backing and batting before you attach your binding. I use my favorite tools to square up my quilts: a large square ruler for the corners, and a long straight ruler for the sides.

Trim the corners

Quickly run your binding along the perimeter of your quilt to ensure you won’t have any seams falling in the corners. If you do, move the binding up or down a few inches to avoid seams at the corners.

Pin the binding

Starting at least 6″ – 8″ away from the corner, place your binding on the front side of the quilt and leave a tail of about 6″ – 8″. Line up the open binding ends with the edge of your quilt. The folded edge should be facing toward the quilt.

Stitch from the top

Starting at the pin shown in the previous photo, stitch the binding onto the front of the quilt with 1/4″ seam allowance. Use a walking foot or even-feed if possible. When you get to a corner, stop stitching 1/4″ away from the corner and sew off the corner.

Sew off the corner

At this point, your corner should look like this:

Detail of corner

Take the quilt off the machine and fold the binding up and away from the quilt as shown. Keep the edge of the binding in line with the edge of the quilt as shown.

Fold strip up

Bring the binding back down, creating a tuck of fabric underneath. This will form the miter on the front of the quilt.

Fold strip down

Starting from the edge of the quilt, stitch the next side of binding down until you reach the next corner and repeat this process for all four corners.

Sew from the corner

Leave an ending tail of 6″ – 8″ of binding. Trim off the excess, leaving a few inches of overlap to work with. Open up the end of binding and place the beginning tail inside it.

Overlap the strips

Using the cut and angled end as a guide, lightly mark a line right up next to it. Then cut 1/2″ away from this measurement to account for seam allowances on both ends.

Trim the binding tail

Put the two tail ends right sides together, and sew with 1/4″ seam to complete the continuous loop of binding.

Pin the ends

Close up the binding and finish stitching it down on the front of the quilt. You are now ready to finish stitching the binding down on the back of the quilt.

Finish stitching the binding

Step 5: Secure with clips

I find it easier to completely secure the binding to the back of the quilt with Clover Wonder Clips before I begin hand-stitching it down. For a throw-sized quilt, it takes about 100 clips to go all the way around the quilt. Pins or hair clips work well, too.

Clip the binding

Step 6: Hand-stitch the binding on back

Put on a good movie and enjoy the relaxing process of hand work for a pretty finish.

Thread several needles using the same thread you used to sew on the binding. Clip off about 18″ of thread to use at a time. Wrap the thread around the needle three times and pull it to the end of you thread to create a quilter’s knot. You can double your thread for extra strength and durability.

Thread the needle

I use a thimble to help push the needle through the fabric when needed.

Tuck the knot underneath the binding, then grab a bite of the backing of the quilt and then a bite of the binding to complete each stitch.

Stitch by hand

Continue forming each stitch by bringing the needle in behind each previous stitch and pushing it out ahead of the last stitch. Pull the thread slightly taut as you go.

Stitch the corners

When you get to the corners, be sure to sew them closed. Take a few stitches on the back to close the miter. Push the needle through to the front, stitch the front of the miter closed, then push the needle to the back again.

Stitch the front corner

When you are near the end of a length of thread, make a knot, then take a stitch through the backing and batting only, pop it through the backing and cut off the excess. Continue in this manner until you’ve sewn down the entire quilt.

Congratulations! You’ve learned how to bind a quilt! You can continue giving your quilts the perfect finishing touch by experimenting with different borders, corners and other finishing techniques!

Looking for an easy way to save these steps to view them anywhere, anytime? Download the free PDF here!



Thankyou ,every hint helps.

lisa Pettigrew

Thank you that makes it easier than the way I have been doing it

Linda Macias

very good tutorial but I don’t get the three needles on the thread???

Janice Sue

Linda, the point is having 3 needles threaded and ready to sew. Put all 3 needles on the thread at once, move 2 needles up the thread and cut off the 18 or so inches for the first needle, then move 1 needle up the thread as you pull off the 18 or so inches for the second, finally cutting off the thread for the 3rd needle. That gets all the needles threaded at one time.



Linda B

Just did mine this afternoon, exactly this way so I must be doing something right in my old age


Linda Macias, I believe the intent was to have 3 threaded needles ready to go, not one thread with 3 needles. I hope that helps!

Sandra McFerran

…. nicely presented in easy to follow picturess and explanation. It’s the way I learned in the long ago – I’m happy to see it is still the BEST way to finish 🙂

Cindy Walker

Thank you for that tutorial, that’s the method I use, but I always have troubles at the corners. I like the stitching at an angle at the corner.


Thank you for your help. Could you tellme how to end? How do I hide my very last knot? Thanks so much.


Thank you so much, I can finally finish my first quilt.


Great tutorial. I was wondering about a wider binding using cotton…about 3″-4″? Would this work? Does the binding always have to be so narrow on a quilt? Just new at this!

Virginia Beck

Yes, Linda you can use a wider binding…….I also use a wider seam allowance…a 1/4″ seam doesn’t leave much room to work with…I use a 5/8″ seam allowance and just finished a wall hanging and used a 5/8″ (finished) binding….sooooooo much easier to work with. I think my next binding will be 3/4″ finished.


Thank you for helping a novice quilter. the simplicity of this article along with the relevant pictures has given me the confidence to bind my first quilt. A very informative and precise tutorial!! Thanks again!!


This is exactly the way I was taught to bind off quilts! I love the clover clips – no more poking myself on pins!!


I really love all yo work.BT times I dought my self.BT i will learn n do my best.I do hand and machine embroidery.we r nw friends.thank u


What length do you cut the strips? 40 inches?


… I am very new to quilting and am making my first baby quilt … the back fabric measures 26″x40″ and the batting measures 30″x44″ as I want a 2″ binding around the quilt. I understand your explanation on all the measurements but the only thing I am unsure of is how wide to cut the four 40″ long strips for 2″ binding around the quilt and I really don’t want to mess up.. can you help? Thanks in advance 🙂


Looking forward to binding my first quilt.

Ann Peltier

Thank-you I needed a review, since retirement recently,decided to quilt again. I needed a reminder and this was good. Thanks a lot!

Michelle Gardner

I love crafty ,love the ideas, love the video just wish they could be just a little longer to watch. Slower on videos, to fast.


Unfortunately, I did not understand how to complete the continuous loop of binding. I messed up despite reading that part over multiple times… thank goodness I decided to do a practice quilt square before trying it on my rraly quilt. I like the rest of the tutorial, but I just can’t understand that part from the pictures or the description. I’ll have to look for a video instead. Can’t risk messing up the binding on my first quilt!


Jenny I was the same! I reread and reread that section and when ahead and cut the binding but it didn’t match up when I tried to bring it together. Ended up finding a fix but would love to learn how to do it right


Wonderful tutorial. I must have watched 30 or 40 on my first quilt (and only quilt). I am just trying to finish the border. The one thing I’m not quite sure of is when I did the front of the border to my quilt I sewed the border down by machine and all the corners. As for the back of the quilt do I bring down the raw edge or do I fold the border down using the top fold as the bottom of the back border to stitch?

jan clark

Thank you so much. Now for how much fabric to buy for seven stips.

Anne Plympton

Very helpful tutorials on binding. Thank you


Thanks! I was able to finish my first binding ever, and 3 of my corners were perfect! Wish I could post a pic, I’m so proud of myself!

Sandy Wall

I love this tutorial and refer my quilting friends to it. One thing I do differently is when I am ready to join the ends, I do not open the binding to mark it. I kept getting it too short. I mark it on the outside with a disappearing pen, add the half inch and cut it. It works great for me that way.

Lucy Gibson

Christa, my mother and I have always wanted to know how to make a quilt that includes a continuous-length, double-fold, straight-of-grain binding. I appreciate your tip about placing the two strips along the right sides to form a 90-degree angle and sew them at the 45-degree diagonal. My aunt’s birthday is coming up in a few months. We’d love to make her something special like a quilt. I guess the first step would be finding some good quality fabric.


Thank you so much!! With your help I just finished my first of many quilts!!

Melody Ashcraft

I just finished pinning the binding on the back side, tomorrow I will sew it on my machine. I love the picture by picture, it’s been a lot easier for me to realize what I needed to do instead of watching a video and rewinding a; hundred times. Thank you.


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