How to Sew a Rolled Hem

rolled hem

A rolled hem is a very small hem made up of two folds. It can be really tricky to sew since each fold is teeny tiny. Many sewing machines have a rolled hem foot that curves and folds the fabric as you sew, but I find that way of sewing it to be very fussy and difficult to control. This is my personal preferred method for a rolled hem and I find it works perfectly every time. A rolled hem is an ideal finish on a finer blouse or dress or something made with silk or a sheer fabric. Don’t try it on heavyweight or bulky fabrics, since it is best on a lighter weight fabric. It is far easier than you might think and is an elegant and professional looking finish that you might want to try on your next project!

Step 1: On the hem of your garment, stitch a straight line 1/4″ smaller from the desired hem allowance. So for example, if you want a 1” hem, stitch this at the 3/4″ line.

step 2
Step 2: Fold the stitch line to the wrong side of the fabric and press with an iron.

step 3
Step 3: Return to your sewing machine and stitch directly on top of the first stitch line. This will need to be done with the inside facing up as the back of the stitch is inside the fold of the hem.

step 4
Step 4: After stitching, press the entire hem with the iron again. If you are using a delicate fabric, be sure to press with an appropriate pressing cloth and with the iron set to the proper heat for your fabric type.

step 5
Step 5: Trim off the extra fabric from the hem, cutting right up to the stitch line.

step 6
Step 6: Fold the hem again, rolling the stitching from step 5 to the wrong side and leaving a clean unstitched seam on the right side of the fabric.

step 7
Step 7: Stitch directly on top of the stitches on the inside of the garment. This stitching will be seen on the right side and if sewn well will appear as one stitch on the inside. Repress the entire hem and relish your professional looking rolled hem!

sew a rolled hem

You might also enjoy learning how to apply bias tape to a neckline.

Plus, take the online Craftsy class Design & Sew an A-Line Skirt to sew a skirt and hem tailored to your own unique style.

Come back to the Craftsy blog tomorrow to learn handy sewing repair tips.

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