Sewing Welt Pockets

Posted by Julia Garza

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Welt pockets are a great option when you want to add a pocket to a garment without the added bulk of a pocket flap, for example on slim-fitting pants or the front of a blazer.

Come along as I show you how to make a single-welt pocket, bearing in mind that you can also make double-welt pockets featuring a welt at the top as well as the bottom.

For each pocket, you'll need a welt (this should measure the length of your pocket plus 1/2 inch and double the width of your desired welt plus 1 inch), two pocket pieces, matching thread, contrasting thread, and tailor's chalk or a water erasable marking pen.

To begin, fold the welt in half lengthwise, right sides together, and sew the short ends together with a 1/4 inch seam allowance.

Sewing Welt Pockets Sewing Welt Pockets

Clip the top corners of the welt to reduce bulk.

Sewing Welt Pockets

Turn and press.

Sewing Welt Pockets

Using a contrasting color thread, baste the welt together 1/2 inch from the raw edge.

Sewing Welt Pockets

With contrasting thread, baste a 1/4 inch seam on the top edge of pocket piece A.

Sewing Welt Pockets

Mark the placement of the pocket opening on the right side of your garment with chalk or a marking pen. The opening should be equal to the finished size of the welt. Mark the middle of the placement with a horizontal line.

Sewing Welt Pockets

On the right side of your garment, line up the raw edge of the welt with the center line. With the right side down, line up the basted edge of pocket piece A on the top half of the center line. Pin the welt and pocket piece in place.

Sewing Welt Pockets

Stitch the welt in place along the contrasting stitching line. Stitch the pocket in place along the contrasting stitching line. Remove the basting stitches.

Sewing Welt Pockets

On the wrong side of the garment, cut through the center line, stopping 1/2 inch from either end. Clip the ends into a Y shape. The triangles will be stitched down later to secure the pocket.

Sewing Welt Pockets

Push the pocket through and adjust to lay flat. Press. Turn the welt up and press.

Sewing Welt Pockets

With the right side down, sew pocket piece B to the welt along the raw edge.

Sewing Welt Pockets

Fold the fabric back and sew the triangles to the pocket (backstitch a couple of times for a strong seam). If your fabric is particularly bulky, use the zipper foot to get as close as possible to the bottom of the triangle.

Sewing Welt Pockets

Sew the pocket together and finish the edges. Pinking the edges is the quickest option and won't add any extra bulk to the pocket.

Sewing Welt Pockets

On the right side of the garment, hand stitch the short edges of the welt to the garment.

Sewing Welt Pockets

And voilà, you're done! What garments would you like to add welt pockets to?

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