UpSized Vogue 8815, 24 to 32!

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Instructions

This is the sample pattern for 'my class, "Plus Size Pattern Fitting and Design." I did View C, with design modifications: I scooped the neckline lower and wider; added a front button closure above the Empire waist seam; neckline facings; back shoulder darts to fit my rounded upper back; cut the back on the fold and flared it a bit more on the lower half; and used bias strips of black coated linen as (uncorded) piping in the neckline, Empire seam, and as a binding for the sleeve lower edge. This is the sample pattern for 'my class, "Plus Size Pattern Fitting and Design." I did View C, with design modifications: I scooped the neckline lower and wider; added a front button closure above the Empire waist seam; neckline facings; back shoulder darts to fit my rounded upper back; cut the back on the fold and flared it a bit more on the lower half; and used bias strips of black coated ...
Read full instructions »

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Difficulty:

Category: Sewing

Type of item: Clothing

For: Plus-sized

Style: Funky, Hipster, Casual, Geeky

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Materials

Rayon challis; coated linen, shell buttons.

What was your inspiration?

I wanted to show that this simple top could be upsized to fit me, and that the design could be modified to make it more flattering for plus sizes and more interesting. I had the very inexpensive challis in my stash, I had the buttons in my button box left over from some other project, and I had remnants of the black coated linen already cut on bias to use as binding and piping.

What are you most proud of?

Slapping that &*^%$#)@!!! coated linen into shape as I used it as piping and binding. I love the way it looks but it is tricky to work with. Even for all the fiddling with fit and design, this top only took me about 4 hours total to make, and probably cost under $25.

What advice would you give someone starting this project?

Remember that when you are making something that does not yet exist, expect some trial and error. I originally had coated linen bias binding all around the lower edge of this top, and it took quite a bit of time to apply it and I did it well. It looked great just laying flat on my ironing board, but when hung vertically on a hanger or on me it made the top look wonky when worn, with the peplum flouncing strangely. The binding was too stiff and wiry compared to the very soft rayon challis. So, I cut it all off, narrow hemmed the lower edge, and the flare and drape of the front peplum and back looked SO much better. In a firmer fabric, this might not have happened, but then again, all that flouncy stuff drapes nicely in challis. My top talked to me and finally, I listened.