Topstitching Tips

Instructions

Topstitching is to garments what icing is to cakes—the prettifying touch. We asked The Sewing Studio’s Ivana Musura for a rundown on the most popular types of topstitches and how to create them. Here are her tips.

The Purpose of the Stitch
Though meant to be decorative, topstitches are functional, too. They help hold garment layers in place, keep edges flat, and can work as a way to attach certain items—like pockets—to fabric. The stitches also keep facings rolled under on collars and give a clean, structured look.
Types of Stitches
Straight/Running Stitch: Used for seam gathering predominantly, it’s done on the right side of the fabric and is a decorative stitch usually created with embroidery thread. It can be done by hand or on a machine.

Zigzag Stitch: A left-to-right standard stitch that encases the raw edge and prevents fraying. For this stitch, vary the width and length to prevent puckering that may cause extra bulk that could show on the right side of the fabric.

Double Topstitch: Two parallel lines of topstitching. It can be done on a regular domestic machine or a cover stitch machine. On a domestic machine, it’s done by sewing one line of regular straight stitches at any distance from the seam, and then having a second line staggered at any given distance from the first. If done on a cover stitch machine, the two rows of topstitching are set to ¼” apart on the right side of the fabric, with a serged-looking finish on the wrong side. Things to keep in mind: When done on a domestic machine, the double topstitch will keep any bulky seams (such as those in a collar) extra flat. When done on a cover stitch machine (used mainly for knits), it will finish the hem.

Triple Straight Stitch: A technique where the sewing machine stitches backwards and forwards in the same line to produce an eye-catching, more noticeable stitch.

Standard Topstitching Tips:
•Because this stitch is meant to be seen, stitches should be sewn slowly—even by experienced seamstresses—and be very precise. Keep them equally spaced from the seam and each other, and choose a thread that matches your fabric perfectly (or one that will contrast nicely).
•Following your pressure foot is a good way to keep your stitches straight, but always sew slowly, pressing the seam allowance open or to one side before you begin to ensure your stitches lie nice and flat when going under the needle.
•When you begin, either backstitch with one or two stitches (this will tuck the stitch into the seam allowance), or if you’re worried the stitch will show on the right side of the fabric, forgo backstitching and leave a tail of threads that you can pull through to the back and tie up after you finish your project.
•If you’re topstitching a shape such as a circle or square, cut the shape from thick paper or thin cardboard, and use it as a template to follow when sewing. You can also use chalk to measure and draw a line that you’ll use to sew on, but this technique works best if you’re attempting a single topstitch of a shape.
•Topstitching styles vary. While it’s sometimes done with a stitch that’s slightly longer than what you’d usually use to make clothing, in other cases—such as along the collars of men’s dress shirts—tighter stitches are used to give a more professional look. Another determining factor is the thickness of the fabric, with the rule that you use longer stitches for thicker fabrics, and shorter stitches for thinner types.

originally posted on: www.lovesewing.com
written by: Liz Bruckner Topstitching is to garments what icing is to cakes—the prettifying touch. We asked The Sewing Studio’s Ivana Musura for a rundown on the most popular types of topstitches and how to create them. Here are her tips.

The Purpose of the Stitch
Though meant to be decorative, topstitches are functional, too. They help hold garment layers in place, keep edges flat, and can ...
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Category: Sewing

For: Unisex

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