TeresaWard on craftsy.com

Skirt Sloper - First Muslin Fit

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Photo Details:
Camera FUJIFILM FinePix F10
Exposure Time 1/100
F-Stop 2.8
ISO 800

Looks good from the front

Created in this Craftsy class

Patternmaking Basics: The Skirt Sloper taught by Suzy Furrer

Make a personalized skirt sloper, and use it to draft custom skirt patterns with an inspiring array of silhouettes and design details.

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Here are some details about my project:
Category Sewing
Type Clothing
Sizing Women
Style Classic
TeresaWard on craftsy.com

What materials did you use? Muslin

TeresaWard on craftsy.com

I plum lined the seem but both side seems are very different in the adjustment. It makes for a very strange sloper pattern which may or may not be correct. My right thigh to hip seems to be longer than my left which kicks the skirt out at the back but the plum line of the CF and CB appear to be reasonably correct. I'm not sure where to go from here because the sloper looks most odd now.

01/04/2014 Flag

I would suggest adding more ease around hips, this will help with the fit around the tummy area - you see fabric pulling towards the most protruding part of the tummy. Your side seam is not vertical, but slanted towards the back at the bottom - that means that the skirt is out of balance. You need to add length to the skirt at center back during drafting. This will straighten the skirt all around. I would suggest taking measurements all over again, we all tend to take it a little to narrow at the hip, measure it without tightenign the measurement band and, in your case, I would add at least an inch, which would probabbly a bit wider than the true hip measurement, but is necessary for a protruding tummy area. Your back darts seem to be short too, I cannot see well ont he picture, but they should end lower Pay special attention to the center front and center back length. Take measurements three times, or more until you get two identical measurement sessions.

01/06/2014 Flag

That is brilliant Frabjous, thank you so much for taking the time to analise my muslin. I was thinking of moving the front dart out to the side (closer to the hip) by an inch to try to get rid of the wrinkling effect of the material, but maybe I will try your suggestion instead (easier than a diet). I intend to add more fabric to the back hem as I noticed from the photos how much I piched forward but I wasn't sure if that would make a lot of difference. However you suggest it will make a difference to the ballance so I'll give it a go. I worry a little about the wrinkling at the back opening, my back seems to be arching back (concaving) so maybe I have too much fabric there, I just don't know how to adjust it (I will think on this a bit more). I think I will tackle the side seams, the hem and the front dart and see how that affects the second muslin and post more photos for people to guide me further. Thanks for the advice, it is much apreciated.

01/06/2014 Flag

I see what you mean with the fabric on the back - it may be partly a result of your posture. Try on the skirt again and try standing relaxed and see whether it helps a little. 2. add ease to hips: If you imagine the fabric as a tube you will see that it in the side view has to go through two protruding parts of the body, you tummy and your buttocks. If there is not enough space for these two parts of the body they will pull the fabric creating tension. Now, the back folds under the waist is just an excess fabric that cannot slide down because of this tension, or lack of ease. This, in turn drags the back part of the skirt up. That's why I think adding ease to hips will solve most of the pulling, or all of it. I would love to see the result, please free to mail it to me at mvk.fashion(at)gmail.com. I have been researching different pattern drafting methods for skirts in the last couple of months, and have been going through forums and classes to find examples how drafting affects th fit

01/08/2014 Flag

If the ease doesn't completely solve the shifted side seam and pulls and drags, only then you can remeasure yourself and add extra length to the center back (at the waist, not hem). It's great that you take time to fix the skirt. If you tackle your straight skirt, you will be able to tackle pants, the block is essentially the same, just few additions that are easy to handle :) good luck

01/08/2014 Flag

Thanks Frabjous I am getting on well with the alterations, but have taken a detour to watch Suzy's other classes and get a flavour of things to come. ;-) Trousers (Pants) would be good to draft, especially if most of the work has already been done with the drafting of the skirt. The crotch is so important to get right though, so not something I would feel comfortable tackling without guidance. I am enrolled on Kenneth D. King, Angela Wolf and Sandra Betzina's classes for trousers as well, and each of them are as good as Suzy in teaching so I know I will have many hours of fun through the winter months. I will photo my second muslin with the alterations and post it very soon. Thanks again for taking the time to help me out.

01/10/2014 Flag