Deby Coles on craftsy.com

Pants fitting version 2

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Created in this Craftsy Course

Pant Fitting Techniques taught by Sandra Betzina

In this comprehensive pattern alteration class, Sandra Betzina of Power Sewing teaches pro secrets to conquer common pant fitting issues.

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Here are some details about my project:
Category Sewing
Type Clothing
Sizing Women
Style Classic
Deby Coles on craftsy.com

What materials did you use? Cheapy fabric for testing fit

Deby Coles on craftsy.com

What are you most proud of? Well, they are much better than the first test piece so I obviously got a lof of the alterations identified and worked in correctly. I'm also happy that I continue to be determined to carry on with these and not give up yet. It's been a steep learning curve for me and I prefer instant success - lazy I guess.

Deby Coles on craftsy.com

What advice would you give someone starting this project? If you are new - be patient. It looks like I will need to make several test pieces before getting a finished pattern ready to use on my real fabric.

Deby Coles on craftsy.com

A diagonal fold or pull usually indicates a problem with a bulge -bust, tummy, derriere, thigh. Bulges need more width and length of fabric to cover our rounded areas. Since you do not have a wide hip width up high or down low, when you measured the widest hip width and adjusted for size,that should have taken care of the width. The problem is most likely to be length. I am looking at the fabric pulling down from the side seam high hip towards the derriere and the very slightly pulled in too tight look at the rear bottom of the crotch curve. Review lesson 5: Rear & Thigh Do everything in basting stitches so you can easily pull it out and make another small adjustment. What I would try first is to add a small width adjustment to the crotch shape at the lower body space. That bit where Sandra talks about being more of a U-shape than an oval at the bottom of the curve. Add 1/4 to 1/2" width at the top of the inseam for the Back piece only and blend the new inseam line down to knee or mid-calf according to your inner leg shape. (Adds length at Center Back seam.) If you still get the diagonal pulls, you may need length for a more rounded derriere. Add a horizontal slash and spread (like an open dart) from Center Back seam dwindling to nothing at the side seam. (Adds most of length at Back leg crease at derriere level.) Once you get the derriere curve satisfactory, then look under the derriere. Releasing the fabric that was being tugged down and pulled out of shape may take care of that big fold you saw under the derriere in the first photo. If you still have baggy draped folds under the rear, you can take out the extra length at that point.with the horizontal slash and tuck shown in that same lesson. Go 1" down under the crotch level. Remove fabric length with a horizontal slash and spread (like a dart) from Center Back seam dwindling to nothing at the side seam. Back inseam can stretch 1/2" to meet Front inseam for about top 7" of seam.

12/02/2012 Flag

Sorry for the long explanation. The Comments section did not pick up my paragraph spaces.

12/02/2012 Flag

Great work to get to this stage Deby! Your pants are looking fantastic at the front and I love how you now have your side-seam straight! In Sandra's book "Fast Fit" she discussed 3 options for Flat Seat adjustments (some of which you have already tried). Here's a summary of what she says: "Option 1: On the back leg inseam, use 1 or 2 sizes smaller from the crotch to the knee. Option 2: Reduce the length of the back inner leg seam. If the problem persists Option 3: Split the back pants piece and overlap the tissue within". It sounds like Option 3 may be useful. Here's how: "1. Draw a horizontal line across the back leg, 3in. below the crotch. 2. Draw a vertical line in the middle of the back leg from top to bottom. 3. Cut the pattern apart along these lines, leaving 1/4in for a hinge at all outside edges. 4. Overlap the back leg vertically, taking out 1/2-1in total; taper the reduction to zero at the inner and outer leg cutting lines. Try not to reduce too much at the full hip. To help the pattern flatten, let it overlay slightly in the middle of the horizontal line." So, maybe it is worth trying Option 1 and going down 2 sizes in the back or Option 3 spliting the pattern vertically. If you can find this book it has great diagrams to accompany the explanations. Good luck, can't wait to see how you go.

12/03/2012 Flag

OK, more adjustments made last night and I think I'm satisfied that it's as good as it is going to get. I must have a very odd shaped behind! You can see the third test here: http://www.craftsy.com/project/view/pants-fitting-version-3/76604 Thank you to everyone who has taken so much time to offer suggestions and tips. As a sewing newbie, I am in awe of the sewing skills out there, and so grateful for all the help.

12/03/2012 Flag