So Sew Easy on

Pants fitting - no alterations

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Created in this Craftsy class

Pant Fitting Techniques taught by Sandra Betzina

In this comprehensive pattern alteration class, Sandra Betzina of Power Sewing teaches pro secrets to conquer common pant fitting issues.

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Here are some details about my project:
Category Sewing
Type Clothing
Sizing Women
Style Classic
So Sew Easy on

What materials did you use? Just some cheapy fabric to test fitting

So Sew Easy on

What are you most proud of? Er so far - nothing. These are terrible ! Oh hold on, the crotch length is good I think - standing and sitting is comfy and there is no gaping. The sewing doesn't seem to be difficult, although I have never put in a pants zipper before, but the fitting is everything !

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What advice would you give someone starting this project? I can't give any advice - but clearly I need some ! I'll be rewatching the sections on how to remove some of that excess from the back under the bum for the flat seat adjustment. I'm sure the adjustments are half an inch here, half an inch there but I seem to need about 6 inches of fabric taking out - is going to be a challenge. But I'm not sure what to do about the extra fabric in the front middle. The width at the top where the trouser meets the waist band is pretty good so where does all the extra come from and where can I adjust to make it go? Looks like I have some hours of rewatching and remaking this pattern and this test piece over and over again. It will surely be a miracle to get some trousers at the end that I would leave the house wearing !

So Sew Easy on

You are correct, the waist and upper hip look great. Think of pants as having quadrants. The front of your pant looks good on both the inner 1/4 and the outer 1/4. The back of your pant looks fine on the outer 1/4 but the inner 1/4 needs help. the fabric is pointing the the problem. When you see a drag line it is pointing to either end of the line as needing more fabric. #1 open the inseam of the leg and add about 1/2in to the back seam now letting it relax away from the drag line pointing to the crotch. Baste this in. This might do the trick. I also noticed that on the side picture the seat has drag lines pointing to the hip and knee. This means you need more length in the back crotch and that you seat needs more depth for it to sit in the crotch hole. To do this just sew the back crotch seam deeper where it starts to curve for the lower part of your bottom. This will deepen 2 x what you sew it at. So if you lower that crotch seam curve by 1 inch you will give yourself 2 inches. An easy way to find out how much you need is to pinch our the drag line horizontally and then deepen the crotch curve 1/2 as much as you have pinched. So now you have a high front crotch length and a longer one, if you still have a bit too much fabric under your bottom then raise the seat area into the waistband about 1/2-1 inch. Remember drag lines always ask for more fabric or point to a problem area that needs TLC. Good luck. I am the owner of Sew Fresh Studio in Niwot, CO.

07/11/2013 Flag

I find Deby Coles is wonderful as she explains things so well. I live in Cirencester in the Cotswolds and Deby sounds to me as though she comes from Gloucester, I am now looking at everything she does. Lucky lady living in the Cayman Islands Marianne Whipp

03/02/2015 Flag

Marianne, I'm originally from Chipping Sodbury on the very edge of the Bristol area, more South Glos than Bristol really. Thanks for your kind comments.

04/19/2015 Flag

Okay, Deby. How are the second pair of pants coming along? I thought these look pretty derned good. If they are jeans and you want them more snug.... that's a whole nother bear.

03/05/2016 Flag

Made some straight leg pants and some leggings. Thank you!

03/11/2016 Flag