Deby Coles on craftsy.com

Pants fitting - no alterations

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Pant Fitting Techniques taught by Sandra Betzina

In this comprehensive pattern alteration class, Sandra Betzina of Power Sewing teaches pro secrets to conquer common pant fitting issues.

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Here are some details about my project:
Category Sewing
Type Clothing
Sizing Women
Style Classic
Deby Coles on craftsy.com

What materials did you use? Just some cheapy fabric to test fitting

Deby Coles on craftsy.com

What are you most proud of? Er so far - nothing. These are terrible ! Oh hold on, the crotch length is good I think - standing and sitting is comfy and there is no gaping. The sewing doesn't seem to be difficult, although I have never put in a pants zipper before, but the fitting is everything !

Deby Coles on craftsy.com

What advice would you give someone starting this project? I can't give any advice - but clearly I need some ! I'll be rewatching the sections on how to remove some of that excess from the back under the bum for the flat seat adjustment. I'm sure the adjustments are half an inch here, half an inch there but I seem to need about 6 inches of fabric taking out - is going to be a challenge. But I'm not sure what to do about the extra fabric in the front middle. The width at the top where the trouser meets the waist band is pretty good so where does all the extra come from and where can I adjust to make it go? Looks like I have some hours of rewatching and remaking this pattern and this test piece over and over again. It will surely be a miracle to get some trousers at the end that I would leave the house wearing !

Deby Coles on craftsy.com

I think pants are an engineering BEAR. It's so much easier to see the needed adjustment areas when doing a muslin. You seem to really have it figured our. Good going.

11/26/2012 Flag

Hi Deby, From the pictures you have posted, the fit doesn't look bad at all. I think these should fit with more ease than say jeans but from the angles you've shown us, I don't see the massive extra material. The front should be an easy fix, just a little taken in at each of those seams at the top next to the waistband. I think the legs can be fixed with the thinner leg trick mentioned below of using a size smaller. As to the back, I wonder if they will hang more smoothly if you add just a tiny bit to the back crotch seam, and a tiny bit to the top of the inner thigh back seam? Thank you so much for posting and I hope our comments and suggestions help.

11/28/2012 Flag

Thank you for taking the time to give all those great suggestions. I'm working my way back through all of the videos now and am confident my next attempt will be much nearer.

11/28/2012 Flag

Looking good! Your pics with the added text really help in taking class theory into practical application for me. Good for you! . Can't wait to see your finished project. :-)

12/12/2012 Flag

The top of the pants look like they fit great, but I see what you mean about the baggy legs. I have found that commercial patterns for pants just don't give us the same fit as ready-to-wear and that is my problem with sewing pants. I hope you are able to take it in and get it to fit properly. I would be very interested in seeing your progress and finished pants. P.S. Your elephant picture made me laugh!

03/25/2013 Flag

You are correct, the waist and upper hip look great. Think of pants as having quadrants. The front of your pant looks good on both the inner 1/4 and the outer 1/4. The back of your pant looks fine on the outer 1/4 but the inner 1/4 needs help. the fabric is pointing the the problem. When you see a drag line it is pointing to either end of the line as needing more fabric. #1 open the inseam of the leg and add about 1/2in to the back seam now letting it relax away from the drag line pointing to the crotch. Baste this in. This might do the trick. I also noticed that on the side picture the seat has drag lines pointing to the hip and knee. This means you need more length in the back crotch and that you seat needs more depth for it to sit in the crotch hole. To do this just sew the back crotch seam deeper where it starts to curve for the lower part of your bottom. This will deepen 2 x what you sew it at. So if you lower that crotch seam curve by 1 inch you will give yourself 2 inches. An easy way to find out how much you need is to pinch our the drag line horizontally and then deepen the crotch curve 1/2 as much as you have pinched. So now you have a high front crotch length and a longer one, if you still have a bit too much fabric under your bottom then raise the seat area into the waistband about 1/2-1 inch. Remember drag lines always ask for more fabric or point to a problem area that needs TLC. Good luck. I am the owner of Sew Fresh Studio in Niwot, CO.

07/11/2013 Flag