Pant Fitting Techniques »
InstructionsLots! Will post numerous changes at a later date!
Type of item: Clothing
What was your inspiration?
This is my year of correcting fit!
I can't seem to get back into corrections so here are my changes:
I am short (about 5 feet 3 or 4 I think in Imperial) and no delicate butterfly! I cut a size D waist moving out to an E at 20cm below the waist. However on this last pair I must have been deranged with the heat because I tapered the outer legs to a size D which is a no-no! I should have done the same to the inner legs, which I didn't. Do you think that's why the princess seams on the front seem to drag to the inner leg? I shortened the pattern in 3 places: 4cm from the upper leg, 3 cm from the lower leg and later 2 cm at the higher shorten/lenghten line. I took off 1.25cm at the crotch line tapering to 0 at the side seams on the back pattern for my very flat butt. I took 1.25cm at the centre back tapering to 0 at the side seam across the upper back pants for a sway back. I added 2.5 cm (one inch) to the crotch front (thanks BB) but scooped this by 4 cm! I scooped 2.5cm (one inch) from the back crotch from below the double marks. On my last toile I thought I had measure my girth incorrectly and that this is why they didn't fit so well. I was so wrong. The problem was in the crotch length I think. I made no changes to the width of the pants and in fact on this pair although I have cut the same size, I have not had to use the 'in case' side seam allowance. I would be very pleased to hear any feedback as the last feedback I received from students has made all the difference!
What are you most proud of?
What advice would you give someone starting this project?
Don't cut into the original pattern. Trace it off and work from that. Yes it is a pain but it is worse later if you don't! Once you have cut into the paper pattern it is hard to determine where you might need to alter if you don't fully understand the concepts. (And why else would you be doing this course?). For example: Initially, I cut a smidge from the back crotch but later needed to add it back as this was not a correction I needed.