Ivory/Gold Coat

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Instructions

Very Easy Vogue Pattern made it easy to embellish. I was forced to piece the sleeves in order to have enough fabric for the full length coat. This worked out perfectly because of the pattern print. Very Easy Vogue Pattern made it easy to embellish. I was forced to piece the sleeves in order to have enough fabric for the full length coat. This worked out perfectly because of the pattern print.

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Difficulty:

Category: Sewing

Type of item: Clothing

For: Women

Style: Romantic, Retro / Vintage

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Materials

Vintage embroidered silk, Pro Weft Medium Weight Fusible Interfacing.

What was your inspiration?

My oldest daughter asked for a new coat, specifically ivory brocade with gold. I happened to have this vintage fabric in the stash. It was inherited from a cousin and it is 50-60 years old. I decided to use it to make a "practice coat." The further I went with this, the more I realized that this had the potential to be a special "one of a kind" garment. I took great care with all the details.
I was told that this fabric was made for a specific Vogue one-shouldered evening gown. If anyone out there has any idea what that pattern might be, I'd love to know.

What are you most proud of?

The details, and the freedom I felt to experiment. Piecing the sleeves, I was able to take full advantage of the fabric and feature the flower bouquets more prominently. Also, I got out the attachments for my very old Singer (recently repaired) and discovered that the ruffler works beautifully. I took full advantage of this and made enough ruffle for the entire edge. Also, the coat is completely reversible . . . it can be worn ivory or gold side out.
And I cannot say enough for the interfacing! Pam Erny of Fashion Sewing Supply has it right! The ivory side of the coat is completely interfaced with Pro Weft Medium Weight Fusible Interfacing. This gave the fabric body and structure without any stiffness at all. It also adds warmth and weight. It made all the difference in the success of this project.
My one disappointment is the buttons. They are self-fabric buttons . . . extremely lightweight and cheap feeling. Anyone have any advice on how to go about finding a better alternative? I couldn't find any buttons that really looked good. Would love to have buttons made from this fabric . . . just better than this.

Update . . . The new buttons are gorgeous! Pat Mahoney of Pat's Custom Buttons did a wonderful job with my fabric. NOW I'm satisfied with this project!

What advice would you give someone starting this project?

Find a simple pattern and use couture techniques. Once again, I will recommend enrolling in Susan Khalje's Couture Dress Class. The techniques learned in that course have made every garment I've sewn since so much more successful. Hopefully with each project I will get a little bolder and experiment more (play with the fabric . . . let it tell you what it wants to be).