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Haute Couturish Mad Men Jacket

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$5,000 for a Chanel jacket? I think not.

Created in this Craftsy class

The Couture Dress taught by Susan Khalje

From creating a muslin to adjusting fit and hand-stitching hems, Couturier Susan Khalje guides you step-by-step through couture sewing techniques!

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Here are some details about my project:
Category Sewing
Type Clothing
Sizing Women
Style Retro / Vintage, Classic
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What materials did you use? French wool/novelty yarn fashion fabric, silk crepe de chine lining, silk organza interlining, copper chain weight.

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What are you most proud of? That the jacket turned out so well, and that I won a blue ribbon for it! As I told my husband, you don't get a lot of recognition at this age... I know I'm going to enjoy wearing this jacket out to dinner in Boston this winter, as it can be dressed down for movie night or dressed up for the ballet. I love that it really holds it's structure but is light, soft and breathable. It will be comfortable to wear under a winter coat.

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What advice would you give someone starting this project? Please check out my website,, for info and resources about making Chanel-style jackets. Also, take Susan's class, even if you don't feel like making a dress. I think this class works equally well with a jacket or top if you choose a structured pattern with set-in sleeves and woven fabric like she uses on the dress, as long as you have intermediate sewing skills and know your way around a pattern. The loose tweed I used unraveled a lot which made the project more difficult for me, so I'd choose something relatively stable. Also follow all of Susan's directions. If you don't, the parts you skipped will come back to haunt you in a later step. Think of the project as being something that will take awhile and enjoy the process. I'd also go the whole nine yards and invest in high-quality fashion fabric, silk organza, silk crepe de chine, and silk thread, as well as sharp pins, needles and shears. If you're spending this much time, you'll want to end up with a luxurious product. The crepe de chine lining feels really soft and deluxe when you're wearing it. I shopped around online and found good prices on a variety of different websites (including Susan's), which was part of the fun for me.

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Fabulous jacket - I wish I could get this pattern --- there is no chance in Europe to get them. I have to search on Etsy and eBay.

12/10/2013 Flag

This pattern comes up on Ebay occasionally, and there are a lot of similar 60's patterns. It is a boxy jacket with a one-piece front (no princess seams) with bust darts, and a one-piece back with small darts on the shoulders. The sleeves are one-piece with two small darts at the elbow. I suggest a 60s pattern so the armscye will be small and the jewel neckline will hug the neck.

12/13/2013 Flag

I'd like to add that I didn't follow the directions in the pattern, which is a fairly simple design. I followed the method outlined by Susan Khalje in the Craftsy class. I recently made another jacket using this method and the only surviving copy of an actual Chanel pattern. You can read about it on my blog here:

12/13/2013 Flag

Really nice work, congrats on the blue ribbon win

08/22/2014 Flag

Very nice! I am currently working on NL 6188. It is an OPP as well.

11/21/2014 Flag

I saved this. It is so well made.

06/09/2015 Flag