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Sewing: Haute Couturish Mad Men Jacket
19 kudoz

Haute Couturish Mad Men Jacket

$5,000 for a Chanel jacket? I think not.

Muslin with many fitting adjustments
Inside out, organza quilted to exterior
Attaching crepe de chine lining
Got the blue ribbon!
$5,000 for a Chanel jacket? I think not.
Vintage pattern and directions

Learn It

This project was made as part of a Craftsy course:
The Couture Dress »

Instructions

To Susan and the Craftsy team, thank you for this excellent course! As I started watching it, I realized that a 3-layer dress wouldn't work for my lifestyle, so I did a muslin for a top. Hated it, fitted it, still hated it, realized it was wrong for the project, took Susan's advice to throw out a muslin that's not working, and decided to jump into the next project I was planning, a 60's ...
Read full instructions »

Difficulty:

Category: Sewing

Type of item: Clothing

For: Women

Style: Retro / Vintage, Classic


Materials

French wool/novelty yarn fashion fabric, silk crepe de chine lining, silk organza interlining, copper chain weight.

What was your inspiration?

I have to say my love of vintage fashion and this excellent Craftsy class. I've been lucky enough to own several French haute couture gowns from the 50's and the interior is every bit as fascinating as the exterior. Also inspired by Didier Ludot's shop "La Petite Robe Noire" in Paris which sells modern versions of little black dresses based on actual vintage fashions. In the case of this jacket, I was picturing the type of jacket curvy Joan from Mad Men might have made her lover buy her at Bonwits...a streamlined Chanel-type jacket that Jackie would wear to a luncheon in Georgetown. I was going to put on trim, but ended up really liking the simple lines so left it as is. I enjoy wearing vintage, but at this age you have to be careful you don't look like you're wearing a costume or you haven't cleaned out your closet in 20 years.

What are you most proud of?

That the jacket turned out so well, and that I won a blue ribbon for it! As I told my husband, you don't get a lot of recognition at this age... I know I'm going to enjoy wearing this jacket out to dinner in Boston this winter, as it can be dressed down for movie night or dressed up for the ballet. I love that it really holds it's structure but is light, soft and breathable. It will be comfortable to wear under a winter coat.

What advice would you give someone starting this project?

Take Susan's class, even if you don't feel like making a dress. I think this class works equally well with a jacket or top if you choose a structured pattern with set-in sleeves and woven fabric like she uses on the dress, as long as you have intermediate sewing skills and know your way around a pattern. The loose tweed I used unraveled a lot which made the project more difficult for me, so I'd choose something relatively stable. Also follow all of Susan's directions. If you don't, the parts you skipped will come back to haunt you in a later step. Think of the project as being something that will take awhile and enjoy the process. I'd also go the whole nine yards and invest in high-quality fashion fabric, silk organza, silk crepe de chine, and silk thread, as well as sharp pins, needles and shears. If you're spending this much time, you'll want to end up with a luxurious product. The crepe de chine lining feels really soft and deluxe when you're wearing it. I shopped around online and found good prices on a variety of different websites (including Susan's), which was part of the fun for me.

 

45 comments

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SewCraftful on craftsy.com
Jan 10, 2013    Flag as inappropriate
Bet it looks great with a long set of pearls!
tvjulie on craftsy.com
Jan 10, 2013   Flag as inappropriate
I've been sticking with long earrings and big cuff bracelets, but I'll give it a try!
tvjulie on craftsy.com
Dec 28, 2012    Flag as inappropriate
An update on this jacket--I'm wearing it to death, throwing it in my carry-on...it's invincible! Nothing wrinkles it. I think the secret is the silk organza interlining. Meanwhile, I was at a high-end fabric store in Paris despairing about the prices (till I found the sale rack) and got in a conversation with the saleswoman and a male dressmaker who said he had worked at Chanel. They started gossiping about the cost of haute couture Chanel suits and said the price was more than 40,000 Euros, which is more than $50,000! They were floored when I told them that I had studied haute couture sewing online. So, ladies, it's definitely worth the 8 million hours it takes to make something with haute couture techniques, because it's like having a $50,000 article of clothing in your closet.
LakeWylieMom on craftsy.com
Nov 17, 2012    Flag as inappropriate
Hey, this is unrelated, but how did you like the Jeanius class by Kenneth King?
tvjulie on craftsy.com
Nov 17, 2012   Flag as inappropriate
Haven't had a chance to watch it yet! I'm plugging through another Chanel-type jacket then moving on to that and the knits class.
tvjulie on craftsy.com
Nov 07, 2012    Flag as inappropriate
I just saw that Simplicity has a Chanel-type jacket pattern with pieces for different bust sizes. It's pattern number 2284. Really wish I'd had it before I cut out my current project, because that's the toughest part of the fitting!
jlgsewsandknits on craftsy.com
Oct 23, 2012    Flag as inappropriate
Gorgeous jacket.
tvjulie on craftsy.com
Oct 24, 2012   Flag as inappropriate
Thank you! And thanks for your advice on lining a full skirt. Hope to move to that type of project after the holidays.
Linda74Sews on craftsy.com
Oct 15, 2012    Flag as inappropriate
Lovely jacket and prize worthy indeed. I too have learned a lot from Susan's class. Can't wait to see your next project.
tvjulie on craftsy.com
Oct 15, 2012   Flag as inappropriate
Thanks, I now have 2 jackets in my closet that are half complete! I got bored and frustrated with one so started on the other. I just got a dress form which is helping me out. Once I finish my jacket binge I'll definitely move on to a dress.
Miss Cara on craftsy.com
Sep 29, 2012    Flag as inappropriate
Hi TVJulie, I have Gerties new book too - haven't made anything yet. Have you? I think I'd rather read how much fun she has in the book instead. She inspires me since she's only been sewing professionally since 2009. There's hope to improve my sewing skills! lol.
tvjulie on craftsy.com
Sep 29, 2012   Flag as inappropriate
Hi, thanks for the comment on the jacket! I haven't tried anything in Gertie's book, but I like all the research she's done on tailoring jacket lapels etc. Also loosening up and having fun with projects. I'm glad sewing's making a comeback!
tvjulie on craftsy.com
Sep 29, 2012   Flag as inappropriate
I like Claire Shaeffer's Couture Sewing book, too, and switch off between that and Gertie's book so I don't get too intimidated to do another project...currently I have another Chanel jacket with only one sleeve and I can't get motivated to put in the other one. Maybe I should leave it like that for a new look!
Miss Cara on craftsy.com
Sep 29, 2012    Flag as inappropriate
What a beautiful jacket - great job.
tvjulie on craftsy.com
Sep 21, 2012    Flag as inappropriate
I'm getting a kick out of reading "Gertie's New Book of Better Sewing, by Gretchen Hirsh, who does the Starlet Jacket class on Craftsy. It's full of tips on sewing and fitting vintage patterns, info on vintage sewing techniques plus a bunch of printed patterns. Totally worth the money.
Rhonda.True on craftsy.com
Sep 15, 2012    Flag as inappropriate
This is classy!
tvjulie on craftsy.com
Sep 15, 2012   Flag as inappropriate
Thanks!
jpwgd1949 on craftsy.com
Sep 15, 2012    Flag as inappropriate
I just love it. What pattern did you use
tvjulie on craftsy.com
Sep 15, 2012   Flag as inappropriate
Thank you! I used a vintage 60's pattern by a now-defunct pattern company called "Spadea". It's #453, a "Dinah Shore" design. I've seen more of them on Ebay and Etsy. I really liked that it had two darts on the sleeve. It was quite boxy so I ended up adding curves to the side seams. Be aware that these patterns have nothing printed on them, so you need to read the directions to figure out where the darts and grainlines are. Part of the challenge!
tvjulie on craftsy.com
Sep 15, 2012   Flag as inappropriate
Also if you search for "Chanel Jacket pattern" on Ebay or Etsy, loads of similar patterns from the 60's will pop up.
tvjulie on craftsy.com
Sep 15, 2012   Flag as inappropriate
I just made a muslin from another "retro" pattern currently available from Simplicity (#2154). The sleeves are different, but I like it.
tvjulie on craftsy.com
Sep 14, 2012    Flag as inappropriate
I wanted to add that it's worth getting the large sheets of tracing paper from Richard The Thread. I've done several muslins since and it's essential. Since there's a minimum order, I bought three sheets of red, three sheets of white, a wooden tracing roller and awl, and now I'm basically set for life.
CCCouture on craftsy.com
Sep 12, 2012    Flag as inappropriate
Beautiful choice of fabric. I certainly appreciate the effort and those hidden details and with such wonderful results. Your jacket is "Casual Luxury" at it Best! Great advice and inspiration.
tvjulie on craftsy.com
Sep 12, 2012   Flag as inappropriate
Thanks! I just looked at your project and saw that you got a blue ribbon for your "Chanel" jacket, too. It looks great! I like the idea of using the fusible on the seams to control the fabric. I hope Susan is checking out all of the projects that were inspired by her fabulous class.
DianaDeap on craftsy.com
Sep 01, 2012    Flag as inappropriate
This jacket is just beautiful and looks like a great fit on you. Congrats on a wonderful accomplishment.
tvjulie on craftsy.com
Sep 01, 2012   Flag as inappropriate
Thanks!
Cissie on craftsy.com
Aug 23, 2012    Flag as inappropriate
Jacket looks wonderful on you! So many of the techniques that Susan covers in this class can be applied to other projects. And just think of all the money you saved!!
tvjulie on craftsy.com
Aug 23, 2012   Flag as inappropriate
I know! Poor Karl Lagerfeld will have to get someone else to pay his mortgage this month!
pcampbell on craftsy.com
Aug 21, 2012    Flag as inappropriate
Beautiful jacket! Well done!
tvjulie on craftsy.com
Aug 21, 2012   Flag as inappropriate
Thanks! You did a nice job on your dress as well. I really enjoyed this course.
tvjulie on craftsy.com
Aug 20, 2012    Flag as inappropriate
Also on the subject of fit, I bought this book by Nancy Zieman (of "Sewing with Nancy" fame) that looked really cheesy, but it has very simple, clear direction for measuring and altering patterns that I've found very easy to follow. It's call "Pattern Fitting with Confidence." I was also able to hold my new pattern up to the muslin I made for the jacket above and could see that the fit was in the ballpark, so going through the muslin phase really benefits on the next project.
Scheri Manson on craftsy.com
Aug 20, 2012    Flag as inappropriate
Thank you for sharing your excellent review. Congratulations on your blue ribbon. Your jacket really looks so sharp on you. Amazing what an excellent fit can do
tvjulie on craftsy.com
Aug 20, 2012   Flag as inappropriate
Thanks so much. I realized when I finished it that the reason I'd given up on retail jackets is that they were stiff and ill-fitting. So nice to have something soft and in proportion!
Springers on craftsy.com
Aug 19, 2012    Flag as inappropriate
Wonderful jacket and it so suits you! Agree with you that the journey is part of the joy! Threads articles on Chanel Jacket? Hard to find? I, too , am making a jacket with the inspiration of the Couture Dress Class... joining up the muslin today!
tvjulie on craftsy.com
Aug 20, 2012   Flag as inappropriate
Good luck with your jacket muslin! Are you going to post it? I'm working on another jacket already...I'm in the zone I guess. You have to subscribe to Threads.com to get access to that article, but I think they give you a free trial so you can check it out. It was in issue #121. If you search "Susan Khalje" in Threads.com a lot of other articles on couture will pop up, many of which have descriptions and photos of the techniques she describes in the class. I also enjoyed watching a Claire Shaeffer video on Threads.com about haute couture hand stitching.
Screaming Mimi on craftsy.com
Aug 19, 2012    Flag as inappropriate
Great jacket...lovely work...congrats on the blue ribbon!
tvjulie on craftsy.com
Aug 19, 2012   Flag as inappropriate
Thank you!
tvjulie on craftsy.com
Aug 19, 2012    Flag as inappropriate
Another comment...I've been talking with friends who used to sew but are disinclined because they have old, heavy, crabby machines that "need servicing". My advice is to pitch the machine and buy a new basic Janome or Kenmore (this brand is made by Janome and is being discontinued by Sears). I got my "heavy duty" Janome brand new on Ebay for $97, I works great and it's light and easy to store.
pcampbell on craftsy.com
Aug 21, 2012   Flag as inappropriate
I love my Bernina!
tvjulie on craftsy.com
Aug 21, 2012   Flag as inappropriate
I've heard they're great, too. My point is, get a new machine! I started sewing again because I bought a Janome mini to make costumes for my son, and was amazed at smoothly it sewed.
hansity on craftsy.com
Aug 18, 2012    Flag as inappropriate
Beautiful! Congratulations on the blue ribbon! I'm also going to hold off on the dress. I'm doing a skirt. Thanks for posting your jacket in the class section. I was wondering if that was okay to do. Also, I remember that Threads article and was thinking about it this morning, wondering if I have the patience when I finish this skirt. Your project certainly is inspiring!
tvjulie on craftsy.com
Aug 18, 2012   Flag as inappropriate
Thanks! I'd say jump in on the jacket. If you make a classic design with this technique it will last forever.
tvjulie on craftsy.com
Aug 19, 2012   Flag as inappropriate
Also wanted to add that the modern "Chanel jacket" patterns appear to be Claire Shaeffer's new Vogue 8804, which explains Couture techniques but is a little dowdy in my opinion, and Vogue 7975, which has cuter options. Both of those patterns are more complex than the 60's one I used because they have side panels and multi-part sleeves.
DonnaDeCourcy on craftsy.com
Aug 18, 2012    Flag as inappropriate
Excellent advice and you have a beautiful Jacket!
tvjulie on craftsy.com
Aug 18, 2012   Flag as inappropriate
Thanks!