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Sewing: Denim Jeans: Candiani Selvage
9 kudoz

Denim Jeans: Candiani Selvage

Jeans: Men's pattern

pocket detail with interior phone pocket
Detail of roll with selvage outseams
Jeans: Inside view
Jeans: Men's pattern
Jeans from custom draft
Coin pocket on the wrong side... ooops

Pattern Info

This project was designed by Sartorialist.
Info can be found at:

Project Pattern »

Instructions

I drafted the pattern using a couple of reference books, but Kenneth King's Jean-ius course is really helpful in construction techniques. Because I wanted to keep the selvage edge on these jeans, I straightened the outer seam and contoured the inner seam.

Difficulty:

Category: Sewing

Type of item: Clothing

For: Men

Style: Retro / Vintage, Classic, Traditional, Casual, Hipster


Materials

Candiani selvage denim from pacificbluedenims.com. YLI jeans thread. Rivets and metal buttons from grommetmart.com

What was your inspiration?

History, culture, Roy Slaper and Andy Whall jeans, as well as the denim itself.

What are you most proud of?

The photos are all of the pre-washed denim, but I have since washed these jeans and they fit even better and are surprisingly soft. I think they are really cool. I've never seen this particular selvage denim before.

What advice would you give someone starting this project?

Give yourself a good 30 hours if you plan to draft your own pattern from the blog entry I wrote. They take a bit of patience and a couple of test fits and redrafts. I think the results are worth it. Blog with pattern instructions http://naea.typepad.com/naea/2012/08/index.html.

 

17 comments

Add your comment:

MaryJZ on craftsy.com
Mar 09, 2013    Flag as inappropriate
Love the jeans! Especially your use of the selvage. Is pacific blue a wholesaler? You have inspired me to give them a try but their website does not look like a regular retail site.
Sartorialist on craftsy.com
Mar 16, 2013   Flag as inappropriate
Thank you very much. Yes, the selvage was a bit tricky to work out since the draft I created contoured the side seams. I had to move the contour into the inseam to straighten the outseam. Yes, they aren't really a regular retailer. They sell remnants (30 to 2,000 yards). They charge a cutting fee for orders under a certain amount. Still, the denim is great quality and remains cheaper than what I can get at the local or other online fabric shops for lesser quality denim. Good luck with your project! I am excited to see what you do!
WowCarol on craftsy.com
Nov 16, 2012    Flag as inappropriate
Don't know if I'm giving away my golden goose here, but I recently ordered some denim on Ebay, from a seller called "winner351". Package arrived and it turned out to be from.... Pacific Blue Denims. Lucky discovery!
ZoeLivana on craftsy.com
Nov 13, 2012    Flag as inappropriate
Wow! I love the red stitching. Great change from the same old rust coloured jeans stitching.
Sartorialist on craftsy.com
Nov 13, 2012   Flag as inappropriate
Thank you so much. The red went nicely with the red and while selvage edge of this particular denim.
Screaming Mimi on craftsy.com
Oct 25, 2012    Flag as inappropriate
Nice work!
Sartorialist on craftsy.com
Oct 25, 2012   Flag as inappropriate
Thank you Screaming Mimi! I wear them all the time.
Linda74Sews on craftsy.com
Oct 24, 2012    Flag as inappropriate
I have never understood why anyone would attempt to make jeans, Now I know. These are indeed special and well worth the effort. In which ways was the Kenneth King jeans class helpful? I have enrolled, but have not yet played it.
Sartorialist on craftsy.com
Oct 24, 2012   Flag as inappropriate
Thank you so much Linda. I agree, I have made several pairs (close to a dozen actually) and I not only learn something each time, I also have a unique pair of jeans in which I selected every aspect of the jean.
Sartorialist on craftsy.com
Oct 24, 2012   Flag as inappropriate
The Jean-ius course is great if someone wants to learn how to copy a pair of existing jeans. I didn't, but the course was still valuable. Here's why... 1) I have never thought to curve a straight waistband by pulling and steaming it into a contoured band. 2) I flat fell the inside seams and bind or leave the outer seams with a selvage edge, Kenneth doesn't, but I have never thought to be patient enough to walk the stitches over the crotch seams and inside seam on the hem, 3) I have used the "burrito technique" on collars and cuffs, but never thought to do it with a waistband... etc. These kind of tips and tricks are the main reason I valued the course. He has many more that make the class really valuable to me.
hansity on craftsy.com
Oct 23, 2012    Flag as inappropriate
Love the fabric and the look.
Sartorialist on craftsy.com
Oct 23, 2012   Flag as inappropriate
Thank you very much.!
Sartorialist on craftsy.com
Oct 23, 2012    Flag as inappropriate
I've posted a link to the blog that describes how to create this jeans pattern. I couldn't find a jeans draft online so I crested one. Scroll to the bottom of the blog for the first step and continue to move through the steps as you scroll up. You'll have some custom jeans in no time.
Scheri Manson on craftsy.com
Oct 23, 2012   Flag as inappropriate
Thank you
Scheri Manson on craftsy.com
Oct 22, 2012    Flag as inappropriate
Amazing these really look RTW.
Sartorialist on craftsy.com
Oct 23, 2012   Flag as inappropriate
Thanks so much Scheri! I was surprised that they softened up and turned a medium dark indigo after washing them. They were really stiff and silvery looking when raw. Happy surprise.
Sartorialist on craftsy.com
Oct 22, 2012    Flag as inappropriate
I have since added rivets to these jeans...