Couture Linen Summer Dress

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Instructions

Lutterloh patterns are unique. See their info on the internet. No instructions are ever included with the pattern. Pattern is customized by individual size.

I switched dress patterns from the one included with the class, and switched fabric choices but used the same methods taught in the Couture dress class. This is the first time I've made a garment that has been underlined!

The silk organza keeps the linen from wrinkling and from growing. I've worn the dress 3 times already without washing and there are no wrinkles! However, either the self-fabric lining or the organza made the top halter pieces too stiff to gather nicely and bulky in the seamline under the bust.

If I use linen again, with gathers and a lining, I'll need to explore either different lining or leaving out the underlining. The top bust area is quite stiff. Almost too stiff to gather nicely around the draw string straps.

For the mid section, I took a black linen and laid it on top of the print fabric - on the bias. Then, I stitched rows of stitching about 1/4" apart along the entire piece. I then sliced open the black linen to expose the print fabric below.

I made lots of alterations to this pattern, following guidance from the class. I am really proud of the fit, the finish, and the look of this dress! Lutterloh patterns are unique. See their info on the internet. No instructions are ever included with the pattern. Pattern is customized by individual size.

I switched dress patterns from the one included with the class, and switched fabric choices but used the same methods taught in the Couture dress class. This is the first time I've made a garment that has been underlined! ...
Read full instructions »

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Difficulty:

Category: Sewing

Type of item: Clothing

For: Women

Style: Traditional, Classic, Casual

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Materials

Linen and silk organza underlining

What was your inspiration?

Initial inspiration was to make a garment using techniques in this class. The original garment pattern that came with the class was giving me problems, and I had a "Summer Dress" challenge for my American Sewing Guild summer lunchoen. This pattern had fewer pieces and fit the criteria for my challenge. The waist treatment (sliced fabric) came from a visit to Koos van den Akker's garments, which I learned during a tour of his work room in NYC this spring.

What are you most proud of?

Not giving up, and not giving in to excuses that I couldn't fit, alter, or sew without a pattern sheet full of instructions. There are NO instructions with Lutterloh patterns. I am also proud of these things:
* Modifying and successfully fitting a muslin to myself (multiple self-fittings, rippings, and remakes).
* Inserting a long invisible zipper in the side (3 tries) and following the steps in the class.
* The underlining made a great deal of difference in how the fabric maintains itself while being worn.
* FINALLY having the right fabric choice for the garment in terms of print porportion to my size, type, and weight.

What advice would you give someone starting this project?

The midriff part of the pattern was originally 3 pieces cut on the fold; front, upper back, and lower back so that there were only side seams.

Since I'm curvy and small waisted, compared to bust, I cut these pieces (in muslin) NOT on the fold. The front and two backs each had a center seam. For fitting, I was then able to manipulate these midriff pieces by taking in the center back and center front seams (keeping side seams straight) to get a fitted midriff.

I ranked this project as advanced only because of the pattern drafting system I used. The technique was not all that difficult and the pattern itself is fairly simple. It is just that there are no assembly instructions with this product.

Then, when I cut the fashion fabric, I took my new muslin piece and made it on the fold again so each piece only had side seams.

I'd also suggest using a very light weight lining - not self fabric if using this weight of linen. I would also consider underlinging the top with something much softer than organza to allow the bust to gather and not be so stiff.