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Chanel Jacket Part Deux

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Buttons, buttonholes and chain.

Created in this Craftsy Course

The Couture Dress taught by Susan Khalje

From creating a muslin to adjusting fit and hand-stitching hems, Couturier Susan Khalje guides you step-by-step through couture sewing techniques!

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Here are some details about my project:
Category Sewing
Type Clothing
Sizing Women
Style Classic, Retro Vintage
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What materials did you use? Chanel Wool Tweed for fashion fabric, Double Georgette Silk for Lining, braided trim with lurex highlights, Chanel Buttons snipped from a blouse bought on eBay, silk thread, coat hooks and eyes.

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What are you most proud of? That I hung in there and finished the thing! I thought using a pattern with kimono sleeves would be easier than set-in sleeves, but it ended up being harder to fit. I like the jacket pattern, though I took the sleeve top and armscye in quite a bit. All the hand-finishing of the lining, buttons and trim almost did me in, and unless you really enjoy hand-sewing, I wouldn't take on this project. The pockets alone took 3-4 hours each. The plaid matching took a lot of time and effort but worked out well. I bought the trim at a shop in Paris, and struck up a conversation with a male dressmaker who told me he worked with Chanel. I overheard him gossiping with the saleswoman in French, and they talked about how haute couture (made to measure for wealthy clients) Chanel suits cost more than 40,000 Euros--basically more than $55,000! Is mine as good as that? What do I care, it's not like Karl Largerfeld's going to bust me!

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What advice would you give someone starting this project? Check out my website,, for details on how I constructed this jacket and three other Chanel-style jackets as well. I'm also dishing about vintage style and worldwide fabric shopping!

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A beautiful jacket...and wow! 100 hours!!??? I commend you on your patience. Karl Lagerfeld recently said we create a product nobody needs but people want. I'm thinking he'd be impressed by your success at creating $55,000 worth of fashion with 100 hours of time - and you learned something to boot. Bravo! Fait accomplit!

01/24/2013 Flag

Thank you! I love that Lagerfeld quote. Much more fun to have one that's homemade anyway...

01/25/2013 Flag

Beautiful jacket. I'm so impressed! I've always wanted to make one.

01/24/2013 Flag

Thanks so much! I put all my web reseach info on the Pinterest page mentioned in my project description. It has links to some good articles and tutorials.

01/25/2013 Flag

Gorgeous! I am even more committed to make my "chanel jacket" after seeing your finished product. After I finish my dress I plan to make the chanel jacket as well. I have the threads article as well as the vogue pattern by claire schaeffer. Thank you for writing all of this up! The advice is very helpful.

01/25/2013 Flag

Glad I could be helpful! I got a little obsessed I have to admit. Check out the research on my Pinterest page "Make Your Own Chanel Jacket," as there is an excellent photo tutorial by Ann Rowley that shows all the steps of the Claire Shaeffer pattern.

01/25/2013 Flag

I wanted to add that I added vents to the top seam of the sleeves on this pattern. I basically cut rectangles about three inches wide and four inches long on both sides of the cuff end of the sleeve seam and monkeyed around with them until they looked like a vent. I got the idea from the Claire Shaeffer Vogue Chanel Jacket pattern. That's one of the reasons I picked this pattern--so I could make a vent that shows on the top without doing 3-part sleeves. I also modified the neckline to give it more of a bateau neck look. The sleeves on this jacket are quite roomy, so I took in the top seam and lifted the armscye under the armpit. I didn't use the fake pocket flaps on the pattern; instead I made, lined, and attached patch pockets.

01/27/2013 Flag