Bernina December Wedding Dress

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Instructions

McCall's pattern 6162 was a springboard for my final dress design.
I used the bodice of view A for the lace overlay, sweeping the neckline wider & adjusting the under bust seam to be slightly gathered, instead of having to dart the vintage lace. I also changed the back to have a low v shape & do up with vintage buttons from my HTB Grandmothers sewing chest.
I drafted a fully boned sweetheart neckline under bodice that fastened with hook & eyes & build in bust cups so I didn't have to worry about a strapless bra. Always a hassle when you are 10DD. It was constructed in medium weight silk satin & lined in 100% cotton, perfect for a hot summer day.

The skirt was a two layer half circle, again in medium silk satin for the underlay & Italian silk organza overlay that was 3cm longer. I hand beaded the hem in tiny vintage sequins, seed & bugle bead I purchased in a Paris flea market.

I made the belt & bow from the same silk satin with an overlay of antique lace from my Great Grandmothers sewing box & beaded it with Swarovski crystals, glass beads & sequins.

And all this was possible with partner in sewing, my gorgeous old Bernina 850 semi industrial. McCall's pattern 6162 was a springboard for my final dress design.
I used the bodice of view A for the lace overlay, sweeping the neckline wider & adjusting the under bust seam to be slightly gathered, instead of having to dart the vintage lace. I also changed the back to have a low v shape & do up with vintage buttons from my HTB Grandmothers sewing chest.
I drafted a fully boned ...
Read full instructions »

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Difficulty:

Category: Sewing

Type of item: Clothing

For: Women

Style: Romantic, Retro / Vintage, Classic

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Materials

Silk organiza & satin, Cotton lace, Vintage lace & beads, Swarovski crystals & pearls, Sequins, Vintage glass buttons

What was your inspiration?

I worked on a production of Grease in 2010 & fell in love with the 50's dance dresses. I was really surprised this had such an influence when it came to designing my wedding dress, as I had always longed for a 30's style gown.
The clincher was the Ivory silk organza I found in Fratelli Basseti Tessuti while on a study tour in Rome last summer. With no dress in mind I purchased 4metres on a whim.
And the early 1960's lace I discovered fallen down in the back of a display cabinet at Franke Stuart, back home in Melbourne sealed the deal.

What are you most proud of?

Incorporating pieces from the sewing boxes of both my Great Grandmother & my husbands Grandmother. It made the dress extremely meaningful to me & felt like they were with me in spirit.

What advice would you give someone starting this project?

I tend to want to get everything done right now, but I took the time with this dress to make a toile or calico & get the adjustments perfect before cutting out the 'real' fabric. None of it was expensive, but as it was either vintage or purchased overseas there was no chance for mistakes to be rectified.
If you can build your strapless bodice to have a bra cups incorporated it will save countless shopping trips & fittings & there won't be any hitching at the dress on the day.
And if possible get someone to help you with fittings, I almost did myself several injuries trying to fit my own bodice.