Even though polyester is not one of BD's favorite fabrics, I like it and used it because it is easy to care for and other than "pressing" when sewing... I'm HEAVILY "allergic" to ironing, LOL.
I made several adjustments to this pattern. First I did the FBA to a 1" spread. Darts adjusted to point to proper spot. I lengthened the peplum by 3.5" and hemmed it with the narrow rolled hem foot (as the fabric is really lightweight it worked out very well). Also I added a wedge to the peplum. 2" from the center front (and back) I cut the pattern open parrallel to the CF and CB almost to the top of the waist edge and spread the pattern by 2" at the hem edge. I filled it in with paper and used my french curve to match up the hem edge. I noticed when I made my muslin that that section is where I wanted just a bit more fullness. I opened the neckline a bit and made a self-fabric facing of about 2 - 2.5". The bodice was lengthened by 1". The sleeve pattern was cut up the middle and spread by about 1/2" to help house the ham arms. I also adjusted the sleeve cap so that I didn't have quite as much "ease". I did not want pleats or darts or gathers. I used a combination of serging and sewing to finish. I first serged all the edges, though, as the fabric wanted to fray easily. I did not install a zipper. I am able to shimmy in and out of this without too much effort.
I did make a muslin first, which was a first for me. I found some $1/yard fabric at WallyWorld and bought 20 yds of it to use for muslins. It is 100% cotton. I washed it and ironed it before using it. UGH! When trying on the muslin the fabric tended to stick to my pants and that helped me make up my mind to use a lighter weight and "slinkier" fabric so that it would move with me and not stick to me.
Ok, so there are still a few issues... which may not be issues at all, but feel free to add tips about fit or constructive help for future projects.
I had to do the "under the bust" darts several times and I'm still not sure they're right. My "bagel" under the breast area pooches out quite a bit when I sit, so I didn't want to do a curved dart there and take up too much of the fullness. Suggestions? Also, I wonder if I need to narrow the width across the shoulders (maybe just in the front).... or are the sleeves in the right spot?
I'm so pleased with this, even though it isn't perfect. Thanks BD for your class. It is very detailed and I have learned so much. Now I have much more confidence to attempt making clothing that fits me better.Even though polyester is not one of BD's favorite fabrics, I like it and used it because it is easy to care for and other than "pressing" when sewing... I'm HEAVILY "allergic" to ironing, LOL.
I made several adjustments to this pattern. First I did the FBA to a 1" spread. Darts adjusted to point to proper spot. I lengthened the peplum by 3.5" and hemmed it with the narrow ... Read full instructions »Difficulty:
Love it. I would never have thought I could wear a peplum top but I was told not to wear fuller skirts also (see my dress from the couture class). I also like the longer peplum
Very nice top. If you are worried about the fit if the dart curved dart may solve the proplem, just make sure that the curve is curving towards the fold of the dart so that you have more width to go over your fluff. Hope that makes sense. I always like to pin fit the fabric (wrong side together, seams on the outside) so that any little tweaks can be adjusted.
Love it, I can see this dressed up with a trim (maybe a lace collar) or beads on just the front and possibly longer sleeve, just under elbow, maybe fitted to make it more flattering. The longer sleeve is a trick I use, if it falls in the thinner parts, it disguises my heavier upper arms, lol
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