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Patternmaking + Design: Collars & Closures

with Suzy Furrer
Patternmaking + Design: Collars & Closures
Take your patternmaking skills all the way to the top. Learn to draft nine collar variations, finishing details and two types of button plackets.

Outfit your blouses, dresses, jackets and coats with custom collars alongside Apparel Arts founder Suzy Furrer. Learn to draft both standard and hidden button plackets before moving on to collars. Design quick and easy camp collars, classic Peter Pan collars for a vintage look, trendy band collars (also known as Mandarin or Nehru collars), and dress-shirt-style collars with bands. Draft shawl collars interfaced with hair canvas for a smooth roll line, custom-shaped partial-roll collars and one-piece patterns for full-roll collars. Finish your coat or jacket designs in professional fashion with glamorous Napoleon collars and chic notched collars. You'll also learn about marking for production-ready patterns. Draft collars and closures like a fashion designer.

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Lesson plan


Lesson 1. Introduction & Drafting Button Plackets

  • Meet your instructor, designer and author Suzy Furrer, learn more about the collars and techniques covered in your class, then dive right into designing traditional and hidden button plackets on your bodice sloper. Your placket measurements will later be incorporated into many of your collar designs.


Lesson 2. Camp Collar & Peter Pan Collar

  • The camp collar (or Hawaiian collar) is one of the easiest collars to design and sew. Suzy walks you through the drafting process, then shows you how to draft a flat-falling Peter Pan collar. Suzy also discusses tips for interfacing collars.


Lesson 3. Band Collar & Collar With Band

  • Suzy shows how to draft a band collar (also known as a Mandarin or Nehru collar) in two pieces, with shaping around the neck. Then build on your skills as you draft a collar with band. Learn where you should add interfacing and how to adjust for turn of cloth on your collar.


Lesson 4. Shawl & Partial Roll Collars

  • Learn how to draft a faced V-neck on your bodice sloper, to which you can attach a shawl collar or partial roll collar. Suzy shows you how to draft both, including how make insertions on your collar drafts to make sure they are wide enough to cover the back seam.


Lesson 5. Napoleon Collar

  • The heavier Napoleon collar is perfect for jackets and trench coats. Suzy walks you through the drafting of the lapels and oversized collar and discusses design variations you can play with.


Lesson 6. Notched Collar

  • Suzy demonstrates how to draft the tricky notched collar. Like the Napoleon collar, it is most suitable for jackets and coats. If you follow along with your own bodice sloper, you'll see how to turn some simple calculations into complete pattern pieces.


Lesson 7. Roll Collar

  • Draft a full roll collar on a V-neck bodice. This collar looks like a shawl collar but is constructed more like a lapel, with a facing that rolls back. Suzy takes you through the drafting step by step and shares tips on how to choose your grain line so the front of your garment hangs smoothly. Finally, learn about all the components of a production pattern you'll want to add to your own work if you are planning to design commercially.

Praise for Suzy Furrer's Patternmaking + Design: Creative Sleeves:

"I have two different books at home about pattern making, and none of them is so thorough and clear as Suzy's classes! I am so happy I was able to take them and I have learnt so much from them. I had made my own sleeves before with the help of the mentioned books, but now I actually understand what I am doing. And there is so much more information included in this class than in my two books together. Also, her way of drafting the sleeves and the other patterns is much more thorough and even logical than what these books have taught me. Thank you, Suzy."
avatar - MandanaW

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For $49.99 you get:

  • 7 HD video lessons with anytime, anywhere access
  • Downloadable class materials including guidelines for button sizes, ease and drafting order
  • Hours of close-up instruction
  • Answers from Suzy in our virtual classroom
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