Learn efficient, up-to-date coatmaking techniques with patternmaker Steffani Lincecum and sew an elegant coat with an eye-catching Peter Pan collar, high-end handwork and designer details. Underline and interface your Vogue pattern V9040 pieces in all the right places for a coat with superior comfort and structure. Sew your seams in the ideal order for the best results. Set in perfect sleeves and add a hidden interior pocket. Marry your lining and coat flawlessly. Handle silk velvet successfully as you make a contrasting collar. Finish your coat with handworked buttonholes, a luxurious Hong Kong finished hem and swing tacks for a secure lining with graceful float. Sew a designer-quality coat with the techniques and confidence of a professional.
Meet your instructor, pattern designer Steffani Lincecum, and review the design features of the classic, stylish coat she'll show you how to make. Then dive into preparing your pattern pieces with interfacing and underlinings. Steffani also shares a professional technique for preventing wrinkles in your underlined fabric.
Steffani shows you how to pin, sew and clip the coat's fisheye dart and goes over all the pattern pieces that you'll want to staystitch. Then begin assembling your coat by sewing the inset pocket and grading the seam. Before you finish the pocket, you'll sew the princess seam (Steffani explains the logic of choosing this order of construction). Finish assembling the major coat components and press the seams open with some helpful tips for a crisp look.
Your coat features a sleeve with a vent and a facing rather than the ordinary turned hem that's typical of ready-to-wear. Steffani shows you how to sew them with a mitered corner and smooth finish. Then tackle the highly visible seam that joins the sleeve to the body by pre-shaping your sleeve cap and pinning it into the armscye with care. Finally, add a sleeve head and optional shoulder pad for a truly tailored look.
Steffani has enhanced the commercial pattern with a special, secret pocket tucked into the lining. Prairie-points piping helps define the edge and add a decorative touch. Learn how to add the pocket and attach the coat lining, then assemble the collar. If you opt for a vintage look with velvet, Steffani shows how to stabilize this tricky fabric with hand-stitching and how to steam it with a needle board.
Finish attaching the lining to the coat, pressing and grading seams as you go. Steffani walks you through the delicate finishing for the center front and collar so the seams stay right where you want them. Then she shows you just where to tack the lining to the coat so everything moves and drapes as it should.
Grab some scrap fabric to audition threads and techniques for your buttonholes. A machined buttonhole might be the way to go, but the thickness of the fabric you use might dictate a handworked buttonhole instead. Steffani shows you exactly how to create this couture touch, and shares her tips for attaching a button that will never pull out.
Your coat is almost finished! Steffani discusses how to deal with the distortion that can come from fabric on the bias and shows how to ease in the edge of the hem after you turn it up. Add a Hong Kong binding on the hem for an elegant touch and see how to tack down the front facings at the hem. Finally, add swing tacks at hem and collar so everything hangs together and drapes smoothly as you wear your fabulous new coat!
Praise for Steffani's class Classic Tailoring: The Blazer:
"Steffani Lincecum brings amazing talent and instruction to the game. I have been sewing for less than a year. I can put together most commercial patterns. BUT if you want professional and artistic results over which your friends will swoon ... take this class. You will learn TRUE tailoring techniques and lovely hand stitches. It is not the easiest class you will take. But if you follow along and practice the methods, you will bring your sewing WAY UP !"
- Judy Murphy