Photo of Kathleen Cheetham

Custom Fitting: Waist & Hips

with Kathleen Cheetham
Custom Fitting: Waist & Hips
Master flat pattern adjustments for skirts and pants that make you look and feel your best. Cater to any figure variation with custom fitting for the waist, tummy, hips and seat.

Join patternmaking pro Kathleen Cheetham as she takes you step-by-step through measuring and making flat pattern adjustments for comfortable, flattering pants and skirts. Learn to slash and pivot patterns for a smooth fit in the abdomen. Adjust patterns for hips that are low, high, narrow, wide, asymmetrical or anything in-between. Use accessible techniques to customize patterns for your thighs, and make adjustments for a perfect fit in the seat area. You'll even learn how to adjust patterns for swayback posture. Finally, Kathleen will help you refine darts or add extras for a waistline designed with you in mind. Make every pair of pants and skirt you sew a wardrobe staple with custom fitting techniques! 

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Lesson plan


Lesson 1. Introduction

  • Meet your instructor, Kathleen Cheetham, and discover the types of alterations you'll learn how to make on commercial patterns to get the perfect fit in skirts and pants.


Lesson 2. Pattern Sizing & Crotch Depth

  • Using the sizing guide on a commercial pattern is just the starting point, and it might even be the wrong one! Kathleen shows you how to measure for hips and get the right pattern size, then jumps into making the most critical adjustment for well-fitted pants: the crotch depth.


Lesson 3. Hip Adjustments

  • Whether you're dealing with hips that are wide and low, narrow and high or anything in-between, Kathleen has guidance for you. Even asymmetrical hips won't pose a challenge when you're done.


Lesson 4. Adjusting the Tummy

  • A full abdomen doesn't always mean fullness everywhere else. Kathleen shows you how to combine multiple sizes of pattern pieces and use the slash-and-pivot method of adjustment to get that fullness right where you need it. You'll see how to adjust for a concave tummy, too.


Lesson 5. Adjusting the Seat

  • The same rules for abdomen adjustments can be translated to the back. Kathleen shows you how to adapt your pattern pieces for a variety of derrières, whether full or flat.


Lesson 6. Refining the Waist

  • Whenever you make adjustments below the waist, your waistband is likely to need tweaking. You might find it best to make a yoke for your pants or skirt, or draft a new waistband. Kathleen makes it a breeze!

Praise for Kathleen Cheetham's earlier Custom Fitting class, Custom Fitting: Back, Neck & Shoulders:

"This is the best class I have taken on Craftsy! I have never been able to make or buy shirts to fit my shoulders. I now feel very confident about making the adjustments needed and I can't wait to get started. Kathleen is a wonderful teacher. I enjoyed listening to her and she made everything so clear and easy to follow. Thanks Kathleen! I can't wait to take more of your classes."
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  • 6 HD video lessons with anytime, anywhere access
  • Downloadable class materials, including a measurement worksheet and practice templates
  • Hours of detailed instruction
  • Answers from Kathleen in our virtual classroom
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