Go From Drab to Fab: How to Use Underlining for Garment Construction

One of the biggest differences between regular garment sewing and couture sewing is underlining. Underlining is what gives couture garments their superior overall appearance and elevates any homemade article of clothing to a designer-grade product. But, what is underlining? Why do you need it, and how do you use it?

Learn the basics of underlining to elevate your next hand-sewn garment!

Installing facings with clean-finished edges

What is underlining?

Underlining serves many functions in a garment, but most generally it supports the fashion fabric and improves the overall look of a garment. It adds body to the fabric in a subtle but luxurious way, enhancing the fabric’s drape. Underlining helps stabilize loosely woven fabrics and can strengthen delicate fabrics. It is also a great and easy way to reduce the transparency of sheer fabrics. Garments that are underlined will wear better, last longer and wrinkle less as the supporting nature of the underlining protects the outer fashion fabric from excessive wear and tear.

Underlining is not the same as lining or interfacing. In fact, they are quite different. Interfacing is used to add stability and structure to select parts of a garment while lining is nothing more than a way to conceal the underbelly of a garment that hangs separate from it.

Want to learn more about all the different types of garments, including step-by-step instruction for how to sew custom garment interiors? Then check out the Craftsy class Underneath It All: Guide to Interfacings, Linings & Facings!

Matching Underlining With Pattern Fabric

What does underlining do?

Underlining is cut from the same pattern pieces as the garment fabric. The two are then sewn to one another so the two layers act as one piece. Once every fashion fabric and underlining pattern piece is joined together, the normal construction sequence begins.

Underlining facilitates marking, sewing and finishing. Construction markings are done on the underlining fabric instead of the fashion fabric, which prevents over handling the garment fabric. The markings can be made more visible, aiding in the overall construction and fit of a garment.

Marking grainlines, pattern marks & seam lines

When sewing, the underlining acts as the medium to hold stitching that otherwise would be secured to the fashion fabric or be evident on the garment’s right side. Since underlining is, in essence, “fused” to each pattern piece, hems and facings can be secured to the underlining and not the fashion fabric, so no signs of stitching appear on the right side of the garment.

What fabric should you use for underlining?

In general, underlining fabrics should be lighter in weight and as soft or softer than the garment fabric. However, the choice of underlining is dictated by the amount of support, type of structure and/or drape that is desired. A tightly woven fabric is best to prevent any stretching and to preserve the structure and shape of the garment. Choose a color that works with the fashion fabric. If the fabric is too dark or too light, it will show thru. To know whether your selection is right, drape the selected fabric and the fashion fabric together over your hand. See how they relate to one another, making sure the underlining does not overwhelm the garment fabric and achieves the drape and look you want.

The most typical fabrics used for underlining include cotton batiste, silk organza and light to medium weight cotton broadcloth, but a wide variety of other fabrics can be used for this couture technique. Fabrics as simple or inexpensive as muslin or even lightweight fusible interfacing can be used as underlining. It all depends on what is required for your specific project and fashion fabric.

Sewing Underlining

How do you use underlining?

Cutting, marking and securing the underlining to the fashion fabric pattern pieces is easy:

1. Simply cut out your fashion fabric pattern pieces in the usual manner. Don’t transfer any markings to the fashion fabric.

2. Then cut the same pieces out of the underlining fabric.

3. Next, transfer all necessary markings onto the underlining.

4. Join each underlining piece to the wrong side of each fashion fabric pattern piece, so the transferred markings are visible. Make sure all edges are aligned.

5. Now, pin the two pieces together securely down the middle of the piece, along the grainline.

6. Hand-baste the two together down along the grainline using long basting stitches to secure the underlining to the fashion fabric. These will be removed later. Remove the pins.

7. Hand-baste the underlining to the fashion fabric within the seam allowances all around each piece.

The process is now complete and normal garment construction can commence. At the end of your project, you’ll have a garment that will look high-end and last far longer than if you had skipped the underlining process. Fabulous!

How do you select a fabric for underlying?

11 Comments

Danielle

I use walmart sheets for underlining. Lots of fabric for little cost.

Reply
Linda Reynolds

That’s interesting. Never would have thought of that.

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Linda Reynolds

Yes, typically you do line the garment as well. I suppose it is not always necessary but a lining will conceal the look of the a fairly unappealing underling.

Reply
jane owen

So do you sew the garment shaping..darts etc….through both sets of fabric….?

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Fea

I am making a sundress out of a 5.6 oz. per square yard linen and cotton blend fabric. I would like to underline it in order to hide my hem and facing stitches. Also, after several washings, the fabric is still a bit more stiff than I would like. I thought an underlining would serve to soften it up and drape better. Is there an underlining you can suggest? I am looking for something washable, light-weight, and breathable, as this is a daily-wear summer sundress. I am not interested in anything that helps with wrinkles, as I am leaving the fabric wrinkled for a casual look. Thank you.

Reply
Liz

Hi, I am making a coat and I want a layer of quilt batting in between the lining and fashion fabric.

I’m unsure whether to attach the batting to the lining or the fashion fabric, considering the need to add an allowance for ‘turn of cloth’.

My fashion fabric is not one whole piece but a bunch of scraps sewn together in a patchwork style.

I don’t know if I should stitch the batting to the fashion fabric (scraps) and have a ‘Boro style’ coat or straight line stitches (as you would when quilting).

I’ve never made a coat before so any thoughts or advice regarding construction is greatly appreciated. This project will be a huge learning curve for me.

Reply
Ria Favoreel

I would attach the batting rather to the fashion fabric than the lining. If you find the seams too bulky in places when constructing the outside layer of the coat, you can still cut away some of the bulk in the seam allowances. You always construct the top layers (fashion fabric + batting) separately from the lining. The latter is finally sewn together with the top layer along the outside seams (except for collar and centre fronts which are usually “lined “with the fashion fabric). You could also “quilt” the coat pieces, so that the batting will already be fused with the patchwork fashion fabric. I don’t know whether it is available where you live, but I have found and used fusible wadding in the past. This makes things much easier. I would also use interfacing as well for collar, centre fronts… Also check out how to set in sleeves (if your pattern calls for this). Also do not forget to add a pleat centre back in the lining, that allows for easy “movement” (taking the coat on and off, wearing it …)..

Reply
Malena

Hi,
Thanks for these helpful tips. When underlining, would you also baste at the hem? Or just leave that part as two separate pieces of fabric? I am making a drapey silk dress–trapeze shape. The silk layer is a little sheer and I like the feel of cotton and thought of underlining it, but I don’t want to loose the loose/pretty drape. Do you think underlining in a very thin cotton would work okay for this?
Thank you!

Reply

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