Continuous Bias Quilt Binding Tutorial: 5 Simple Steps to Success

While bias binding can be used to add interest to the edges of any quilting project, it’s a must for quilts and quilted accessories with curved edges. Making bias binding with stripes and other straight prints can lead to a visually intriguing quilt binding with the stripes or print on the diagonal. Rather than sew tons of seams to piece your bias strips together, the method below allows you to sew just two seams to make continuous binding, and then cut your binding along drawn lines.

Rolled Quilt with Binding - Continuous Binding Tutorial on Craftsy

Photo via A Quilting Life

Follow the steps in this quick and easy tutorial to make impressive continuous bias binding for your quilts and quilted accessories!

Cut Fabric for Continuous Binding

Step 1:

Cut a square piece of fabric. The larger your square, the more continuous bias binding you’ll be able to make. Place a pin at the center left and at the center right side of the fabric square. Cut the square on the diagonal once. Be careful not to stretch or pull the bias edges.

Step 2 - Cutting Triangle

Step 2:

Take the two triangles and place them right sides together, matching the pins from step one.

Sewing Fabric - View of Seam

Step 3:

Sew a seam along the edge where the pins are. Press the seam open, again being extra careful not to stretch or pull the fabric. Using an acrylic ruler and a fine pencil, mark lines the desired width of your binding on the wrong side of the fabric.

Sewing Seams into Fabric

Step 4:

Create a tube by bringing the top and bottom of the piece of fabric together. Match one side of the fabric with the first drawn line of the other side. The tube will be “off set” along the other edge. Sew the top and bottom of the tube together and again press the seam open.

Pressing Seam Open - Continuous Quilt Binding

Step 5:

Using a good pair of sharp scissors, start cutting at the uneven or “off set” end of the tube using the drawn lines as a guide. You will cut the entire tube apart and have a continuous strip of bias binding.  Then, beginning at one end, press your continuous binding strip in half, wrong sides together, until you have pressed the entire length of the strip. Be careful when handling your bias binding strip, you don’t want to stretch or pull the strip.

Step 7: Cutting to Have a Continuous Binding

One Final Note:

To figure out how much continuous bias binding a particular square of fabric will make, simply multiply the sides of the square by each other and then divide by the width of your binding strip to determine the measurement of your binding strip. If you have cut a 25” square and are making 2” wide binding, multiply 25 x 25 to get 625, then divide by 2. Your square will make approximately 312.5” of continuous bias binding. 

Rows of Continuous Binding -

There you have it, an easy method for making continuous bias binding with just a few simple steps!

What do you like or dislike about continuous bias binding?



I like this binding. It takes a couple steps, but when you finally cut, you are done
(except for pressing) I ALWAYS forget how to do this, so keep this Tute alive, Please!

Margaret Trouten

Thank you, excellent instructions. I really liked the maths for measuring how much binding you can make.


You have omitted a very important instruction for marking the fabric to create a continuous strip. Opened your instructions as a refresher, read them, looked at where I was about to mark my fabric and thought: wait a minute, that won’t be continuous…

Ann Heiser

I followed steps 1-4 exactly; my fabric looked like the picture and lines lined up perfectly. Then I got a bunch of little tubes. Not very helpful. Somewhere, a step is missing!


Ann and Sewer, I think you forgot to create the offset . . . . Check step 4 and the lower left and upper right portions of the picture. (Ask me how I know ~ I have my own collection of little tubes.)


Ann – – I think you did what I almost did – – when you cut, you only cut ONE piece of fabric at a time. I think you held the two pieces of fabric together and cut through two pieces of fabric at a time. Just cut ONE piece of fabric with your scissors, following the same continuous line all the way to the end.

Judy lane

Instructions were great and I was so glad to know how big a square I needed.

Mary K

Yes, great tutorial. As you pointed out in the instructions as well as the comment to 2 other people, offsetting the final step is the key. And I love the math .. I’ve used this technique in the past, but didn’t have the math to calculate how much bias I’d end up with. Thanks so much!


I am just starting to think about making my first quilt so I am trying to understand how it all works before I start. I had trouble following this, especially between picture #3 and picture #4 because you shifted everything around between pictures and the seam that is showing was the SECOND seam you had already sewn – – I didn’t realize you sort of “missed” a picture (it would be helpful to show an addition picture between #3 and #4). So I had trouble duplicating that. But after several extremely frustrating minutes (were your ears burning? ha ha) I finally realized picture #4 was what it looks like AFTER you complete the instruction, and there are TWO seams showing in that picture, the first seam you had sewn was on the BOTTOM facing up! So I finally got my fabric to look like your fabric in picture #4 by holding the fabric together “pretending” I had already sewn that 2nd seam.

Once I got this to work, and I cut it out, the result is like a little MIRACLE – – it works!!!!!!!! Thanks for your help. Now on to the next step – – figuring out what the heck to do with it now!


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