Seam Series: How to Sew a Flat Fell Seam Tutorial

Take a look at your jeans or at a men’s dress shirt, and you’ll spot flat fell seams. On the outside of the garment there is a pair of stitch lines, and on the inside of the garment, it’s all clean and tidy without raw seam edges. Ever wonder how they did that? Well here you go! Let’s learn how to sew a flat fell seam, so you can try it on your next project.
Seam Series: How to Sew a Flat Fell Seam

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How to sew a flat seam

Step 1: Pin the fabric of the seam together, wrong sides facing.

flat fell seams
Step 2: Sew the seam with the wrong sides facing at the project’s allotted seam allowance. This example is being sewn at 5/8″.

sew seam
Step 3: Press the seam open on both sides of the fabric. Be sure to set your iron for the type of fabric being used.

press seam
Step 4: Trim one side of the seam allowance down to 1/4″. Do not trim the other side.

trim
Step 5: Press the untrimmed seam allowance over the seam and on top of the trimmed side.

press
Step 6: Fold the pressed side under, tucking the raw edge into the fold.

fold
Step 7: Press the fold, making sure that the raw edge is fully tucked under and that the flap left is the same width along the seam.

press the fold
Step 8: Line up your fabric in your machine so the stitching is close to the fold.

line up
Step 9: Stitch along the edge of the fold, trapping all the raw edges inside.

stitch
stitching

6 Comments

Marion Frazer

I have been a home sewer for years, and have done flat felt seams…but watching you do this technique, reminds me how easy it is to do correctly and the results come out perfect. Thank you so much…what a delight….Marion

Reply
Faye

love, love, love this! I am definitely doing this in my next garment! Thank you for the tutorial xx

Reply
Quilt Dude

Thanks for this tutorial. I am a quilter, but am branching out into garment sewing, so I’m trying to learn different sewing and finishing techniques, so this is very useful. I’ve practiced the pojagi style on scraps, and the finish is very clean and polished, with the raw edges all enclosed – Is the flat fell seam different from the pojagi seaming technique?

Reply

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