Seam Series: How to Sew a Flat Fell Seam Tutorial

Posted by on May 18, 2013 in Sewing | Comments

Seam Series: How to Sew a Flat Fell Seam

Take a look at your jeans or at a men’s dress shirt, and you’ll spot flat fell seams. On the outside of the garment there is a pair of stitch lines, and on the inside of the garment, it’s all clean and tidy without raw seam edges. Ever wonder how they did that? Well here you go! Let’s learn how to sew a flat fell seam, so you can try it on your next project.

Step 1: Pin the fabric of the seam together, wrong sides facing.

flat fell seams

Step 2: Sew the seam with the wrong sides facing at the project’s allotted seam allowance. This example is being sewn at 5/8″.

sew seam

Step 3: Press the seam open on both sides of the fabric. Be sure to set your iron for the type of fabric being used.

press seam

Step 4: Trim one side of the seam allowance down to 1/4″. Do not trim the other side.


Step 5: Press the untrimmed seam allowance over the seam and on top of the trimmed side.


Step 6: Fold the pressed side under, tucking the raw edge into the fold.


Step 7: Press the fold, making sure that the raw edge is fully tucked under and that the flap left is the same width along the seam.

press the fold

Step 8: Line up your fabric in your machine so the stitching is close to the fold.

line up

Step 9: Stitch along the edge of the fold, trapping all the raw edges inside.


Give all the stitching a final press for a gorgeous, tidy, and strong seam! To learn a wealth of seam techniques, check out the Craftsy online class Decorative Seams with Katrina Walker. And be sure to come back to the Craftsy blog tomorrow for the next post in my seam series!



  1. Marion Frazer says:

    I have been a home sewer for years, and have done flat felt seams…but watching you do this technique, reminds me how easy it is to do correctly and the results come out perfect. Thank you so much…what a delight….Marion

  2. Deanna says:

    Very neat seam:)

  3. Faye says:

    love, love, love this! I am definitely doing this in my next garment! Thank you for the tutorial xx

  4. Quilt Dude says:

    Thanks for this tutorial. I am a quilter, but am branching out into garment sewing, so I’m trying to learn different sewing and finishing techniques, so this is very useful. I’ve practiced the pojagi style on scraps, and the finish is very clean and polished, with the raw edges all enclosed – Is the flat fell seam different from the pojagi seaming technique?

    1. Franni says:

      Pojagi is, I think, much more fiddly! There’s a demo of it on YouTube for comparison:

  5. Hunny13 says:

    Clean, strong, and lovely!
    Thanks much :)