How to Block Your Knits: A Tutorial + Helpful Tips

Ever had a sweater — store-bought or handmade — that just loses its shape? The sleeves are hanging at different lengths, and hems that used to hit at the hips now hang like a crop top. What can you do? You have to reshape it. That’s what blocking is for.

While many of you who are well-versed in knitting techniques may be more familiar with how to block in knitting, this tutorial will offer a step-by-step guide for those who might be newer to the process.

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Knitted projects won’t come out perfect as soon as you bind off. You have to tell the stitches where to sit. That’s all blocking is.

Chances are, you have a couple of lumps and bubbles, in addition to uneven lengths. Blocking can take care of that, too.

Before you go crazy, don’t think that blocking will make up for those stitches you forgot to decrease or that little section where you went off pattern. It’s hard to hide those mistakes. Blocking will simply reshape an item.

A lot of knitters block their individual pieces before seaming them together. I’m going to admit it: I don’t do that. I sew the whole piece together, then I block it. I prefer this because it just makes life easier. I can do all the blocking at once and have a better idea of what it looks like as a finished piece. If this makes you nervous, you should go ahead and block them separately.

Quick blocking tips

  • Only natural fibers like wool, alpaca, etc. will benefit from blocking
  • Never use hot water when soaking or rinsing natural fibers. Remember that hot water and agitation are used to felt wool, so if you use either of those when you block, your stitches will start to stick together to form a solid piece of fabric.
  • You probably don’t want your sweater smelling like your hair — or maybe you do. Make sure you’re blocking with a mild shampoo. Baby shampoo works well, or you can buy special wool wash to use.

Fancy blocking tools

Like most techniques, there are a ton of tools you can use to block. I don’t own many of these tools. For the most part, I substitute in other things I have around the house. When deciding whether to buy these tools below, just purchase what you think is best for your skill level. Will you be blocking a lot? Can you substitute the tools? It all depends on your personal preferences.

Blocking mats

Blocking mats are awesome because they have grids on them that can help when you’re measuring and tugging at your blocked item. You can also get a special blocking board or foam mat that serves the same purpose.

Tpins

T-pins

T-pins work well with foam blocking mats. You can push the pins in to hold down whatever item you’re blocking and make sure it stays put.

Green Sock on Sock Blockers

Sock blockers

I don’t knit socks often, but if I did, I’d probably buy these sock blocks. They come in a range of sizes, so you don’t have to do much adjusting after you slip your sock on it.

Green Tube of Wool Wash

Wool wash

You can use a mild shampoo to wash your sweater, but there are also wool washes and other special fabric washes. This soak came from Purl Soho.

How to block your knitting

I knitted my first sweater a few years ago. After every few wears, the rib at the bottom of the sweater starts to stretch out to the sides, making the sweater shorter and making my body look horrific in it. Here’s how I solved the shaping problem.

What you’ll need:

  • Sink or bucket large enough to hold your item
  • Mild shampoo or wool wash
  • 2 towels, one for rolling and another for blocking
  • Measurements of your finished item, usually provided in the pattern

1. Fill a sink or bucket with lukewarm water. (Remember that hot water will cause wool to felt. We don’t want that!)

2. Toss a little bit of the shampoo or wool wash in there and mix it all up.

3. Dip your knitted item (in my case, a sweater) into the water. Move it around just enough to make sure the entire item is wet, but don’t go nuts and dunk it in and out. Just like the hot water, agitation will make the natural fibers come together. Let the item hang out in the sink or bucket for about 5 minutes.

Dipping Sweater in Bucket with Wool Wash

4. Begin the rinsing process: Drain the sink or bucket and refill it with cool water. Keep rinsing the item until the water is clear and without suds.

5. Grab one of the bath towels. Lay your item on the towel. No need to check exact measurements right now, but lay it out roughly the way you want it to look. You’ll get one more chance later to really adjust it.

6. Roll the item up in the towel. Squeeze the water out as you roll. If the item still feels drenched, you can repeat this step with another clean towel.

Rolling Sweater in Towel

7. Grab one more bath towel. Lay the towel on a flat surface.

8. Check out the measurements from your pattern. If you’re making a garment like a sweater, you’ll want to be more exact than if you’re blocking, say, a blanket. Start to pull on your sort of wet item, making sure the item is laying flat and that all the measurements match those from the pattern.

Sweater Drying on Towel

9. Now’s the time to perfect the sweater. Adjust every angle, and then leave the sweater on the towel to dry. (Drying time will vary depending on how large the item is, so just check back in a couple of hours.)

The Knitter’s Guide to No-Fuss Finishing

knitting finishing guide

Learn essential finishing techniques you can use to bring out the true beauty in any knitting project.Get My FREE Guide »

12 Comments

Carmen Iglesias

Very clear explanation. Thank you to help knitters to do good jobs.

Reply
leah

What pattern is the sweater top you’ve put in the photo’s? It’s gorgeous and i’d love to make it. Thanks for the tutorial!

Reply
Ashley at The Feisty Redhead

Oooh, yes, it is a lovely sweater! It’s called Dogwood Donna, and I put a link in the text. It’s right above the steps for blocking, under the heading How to Block Your Knitting. Enjoy!

Reply
MaryQEP

I found blocking essential for lace shawls or scarves. It transforms something that looks like an old rag into something spectacular.

Reply
Leslie

Found this article in a search, lots of good info, but, lately I’ve been knitting scarves with sock yarn, that have some simple lace in them and I can’t seem to get them to block right. I soak them for hours to make sure they’re evenly wet. I pin them down until they are completely dry. I usually have a fan going on them while they block. They still bunch back up when I unpin them! Am I missing something? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Reply
Ashley

What fiber(s) is the sock yarn made from? If it’s not mainly animal fibers, it will spring right back to its original shape. Sometimes even a little hint of nylon or acrylic will stop it from blocking successfully.

Reply
Nara Fuchs

I see that you mentioned blocking mats but I don’t see one under the sweater. I am knitting a new sweater and I’d like to know how the girds would be of assistance when a towel is blocking the view?

Reply
Nara Fuchs

I see that you mentioned blocking mats but I don’t see one under the sweater. I am knitting a new sweater and I’d like to know how the girds would be of assistance when a towel is blocking the view?

Reply
Nara Fuchs

I see that you mentioned blocking mats but I don’t see one under the sweater. I am knitting a new sweater and I’d like to know how the girds would be of assistance when a towel is blocking the view?

Reply
tightening Cream

I have read so many articles regarding the blogger lovers but this piece of writing iss truly
a good paragraph, keep it up.

Reply
PAT MAGLIOCCHINO

I JUST FINISHED KNITTING STRIPS FOR AN AFGHAN. NOW I HAVE TO PUT THEM TOGETHER. DO I BLOCK EACH STRIP OR PUT IT TOGETHER & THEN BLOCK. I DO NOT NEED TO WASH THE STRIPS. I THOUGHT I COULD JUST PRESS THEM WITH A STEAM IRON. WHAT DO YOU THING?

Reply
Kaitlin

Good article with good tips – however the part about only being able to block natural fibers is 100% false. You can block acrylic, you SHOULD block acrylic. Stockinette typically only responds to steam blocking, however for thicker items like cabled scarves respond very well to being fully soaked & laid out to dry.

Reply

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