How to Apply Bias Tape to a Neckline: Method 2

Posted by on Apr 13, 2013 in Sewing | Comments


Neckline

If you found the first version of how to apply bias tape to a neckline to be too challenging, well, you are in luck! This version is even easier for professionally finishing any edge on a neckline or arm hole opening, or anything else with a raw edge. The final result is nearly identical to the first version, with even less effort. Try both and see which you prefer!

Step 1: Just like the first method I taught for applying bias tape to a neckline last week, if possible start with the shoulder seams sewn together, but not the side seams. This gives you full access to the neckline without restrictions.

Step 2: Measure the opening with a flexible ruler and do your best to get a measurement for the neckline. Add a couple of inches to the total so you have room to overlap and sew the ends together.

Step 2

Step 3: Line up the 45 degree angle from your ruler on the selvage of your fabric. This will give you a line into the true bias of the fabric.

Bias Tape

Step 4: Draw a line along the edge of your ruler equal to the length you measured in step 2.

Tape

Step 5: Move your ruler over and draw a parallel line next to the first one, 2” apart, for a bias strip that is 2” wide by the length from step 2.

Bias Tape

Step 6: Cut along both lines, carefully staying on your drawn line.

Step 6

Step 7: Take the bias strip to the ironing board. Fold the strip in half and press crisp, keeping the raw edges lined up as you go.

Step 7

Step 8: Leave the bias strip folded. Find the center point of the strip and pin it to the center point of the neckline. Continue pinning around the entire neckline until you reach the midway point on the neckline back.

Entire Neckline

Step 9: At the center back, open the fold of the bias strip and pin the ends together so it fits around the neckline.

Step 9

Step 10: Take the pinned spot to the sewing machine and stitch them together. Make sure they are pinned with right sides together.

Pinned

Step 11: Trim off the extra fabric after the stitch mark. Press the seam open.

Step 11

Step 12: Press the original crease at the center back and pin at the neckline.

Step 12

Step 13: Sew around the entire neckline at the 1/2” seam allowance.

Step 13

Step 14: Trim the seam allowance around the neckline in half. Be careful not to accidently trim the neckline stitching.

Step 14

Step 15: Press the bias tape on the right side of the garment, up into the neckline opening.

Step 15

Step 16: Turn the bias tape into the neckline, rolling the seam to the inside and press. Pin in place.

Sew

Step 17: Sew all around the neckline as close as you can to the inside fold. Give the entire neckline a final press and you’re done! This method of finishing can be used on any neckline or to make a sleeveless finish to edge an armhole opening. Mix it up and use a contrasting fabric for a little secret inside your next dress project!

Last Step Bias Tutorial

So now that you know both methods, which do you prefer?

Come back to the Craftsy blog tomorrow to learn all about inserting zippers with ease, every time. And in case you missed it, enjoy some great tips for sewing with satin.

Comments

  1. Camielle says:

    Christine, would you consider doing a video on lining a top and also a jacket, like………….up close and step by step so that we can see and understand exactly what you are doing? Camielle

    1. Camielle says:

      Another wonderful helpful technique from Christine Haynes! Thank you again. Camielle

    2. Hi Camielle,
      Thanks for the topic suggestion! You might see that on here at some point in the future :)

  2. Jen says:

    Thanks for the clear instructions. I have used the first method you showed previously however I think that I prefer the simplicity of this method.

    1. I’m glad you’ve given both a shot! The end result is the same, so no one will know which you picked to do. Use whichever is easiest for you!

  3. Cindy says:

    Perfect instructions. I’m trying to improve my sewing skills, use it or lose it (I lost them) and this is so helpful. I upcycle great dresses and shirts and this tutorial is exactly what I needed! Thanks….

  4. Rosalee says:

    Great article and tips! Thanks!!

  5. Jane says:

    Wow – that’s how I attach my quilt binding – never thought to use the method for apparel. Thanks so much for sharing your secrets. I have your video for the Sassy Blouse – never got further than taping the pattern and watching the video.
    I think the muslin scared me off – but now I have Paul Gallo’s class – so I can begin to feel comfortable with the MENTION of muslin – still haven’t started one yet. Thanks Christine – blessings to you.

    1. Thanks for your comments! The class will be there when you are ready :) And I’m glad you liked my tutorial!

  6. Qui says:

    What?! Less pressing and measuring?? Yes please! I will have to give this method a try–it sounds much simpler! (Not that the first method is hard, but you know, who doesn’t like a shortcut?!)

  7. shundra henderson says:

    is there a way to do the spandex fabric like that

    1. With knit or stretch fabrics you usually do not cut the pieces on the bias, as they are already stretchy. Usually the binding is not top stitched either on stretch fabrics, so you would double fold the strip and serge it to the edge.

  8. Susan Frison says:

    Also on step 7. curve it while you are pressing it, so the fold is on the outside of the curve. Makes it lay perfect. Great instructions.

  9. Tabatha says:

    Thanks for showing it to us, would you be able to do it in video to give me a better idea?? I always having trouble doing neckline and I really need to learn how to do it properly and your instruction is very clear, I just need to watch you to do it to get a better understanding. Thanks so much for showing these pics :)

    1. Sorry, there is no video of this :)

  10. gale says:

    This tutorial is easier but it seems like it would leave more bulk in the seam. So which method I choose would depend on how thick the fabric is. Thanks for these tutorials!

    1. exactly! this method is less ideal with bulky fabrics, so plan accordingly!

  11. Judith Williams says:

    Wow that is just the best I ever understood how to sew on Bias tape!!!Ive sewn for over 50 years, and Ive always had a hard time with Bias tape it never look good.the sewing on the inside and ouside seams.look messy and not even..tx, again.

  12. Muriel says:

    Great tutorial! Thank you so much. I appreciate the opportunity to brush up on techniques that are so useful. I enjoy being a member of Craftsy and look forward to your next tutorial.

  13. lucille says:

    Ilove this method I’ve been sewing for almost all my life and never thought of that.

  14. Emma says:

    Really nice clear instructions & the photos make this super easy to understand. Your blog is always my first ‘go to’ for information so thank you very much :-)

  15. Anitta says:

    This is well done and very useful. Thanks!

  16. Kathy says:

    Can I apply it just the opposite so the bias tape shows on the oustside? I like when it shows around the armholes in a contrasting color. Thanks!

    1. yes! you can follow all the steps exactly, but sew it on the inside instead of the outside. then when you flip it to the outside, just make sure that the seam is not visible on the right side!

  17. Caraline Howden says:

    thank you for this, I have trouble getting the binding on one side and the other side to match up when stitching. doing it this way I only have to worry about one line. yay. I will do this in future on my quilts too.

  18. Here’s a tip I use in my studio for measuring anything that curves (like a neckline opening).
    Instead of using a flexible rule, just turn your tape-measure up on it’s edge, Voila! Now your humble tape measure is “The Most Flexible “Ruler” ever!

  19. Dasha says:

    Thank you very much for the great tutorial! I’m new to sewing and have got a question. I’m trying to make a dress from burda magazine (http://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns/double-layer-dress-062013) however, they sew in bias tape before doing the second shoulder seam, and similar in armholes, before the side seam… In this case how to do finish correctly the bias?? If I do it to one side it way too bulky.

    I would really appreciate your advice.

    Thank you, Dasha